Lucia, Los Angeles review: smoke, spice and roots

A stylish Afro-Caribbean dining destination has landed in Los Angeles's Fairfax District. The eatery, called Lucia, is the project of hospitality entrepreneur Sam Jordan, who previously worked on LA's Issima restaurant and Oakland's Kissel Uptown hotel. With Lucia, a labour of love that took three years to develop, Jordan is shining a glamorous spotlight on an under-represented cuisine.

Wallpaper* dines at Lucia, Los Angeles

The mood: a modern Caribbean daydream

Alexis Readinger of LA-based hospitality design firm Preen, Inc. imbued Lucia with a seductive Caribbean atmosphere. The vibes start at the front door, which features a snake-shaped handle, and continue into a golden mirrored chamber. You’ll be tempted to linger over a round of okra martinis at the central white terrazzo bar, which is framed by three towering verdigris palms fabricated by local multi-media artist Guerin Swing, or nestle into the shell-like domes ensconcing five plant-patterned velvet booths.

A smoky glass window separates the kitchen from the dining room, and if you venture behind the bar, the Palm Room offers a slightly more formal setting, with bespoke wallpaper by textile designer Candice Kaye and a variety of textured fabrics in deep emerald, coral and gold mohair.

The food: smoke, spice and roots

Jamaica-born chef Adrian Forte is the force behind a modern Caribbean menu rooted in the African diaspora. The elevated recipes celebrate the method of ‘jerk’ – using not only the signature spices but also pimento wood chips sourced from Jamaica.

For heartier appetites, opt for the jerk-spiced dry-aged tomahawk steak or the coconut fried chicken served with ‘Trini’ mac pie. Smaller plates, which are also available at the bar, include half-moon-shaped beef patties, saltfish and fig croquettes, and a must-try sweet potato sticky pudding for dessert.

Beverage director Melina Meza draws on spices and native fruits from St. Lucia and Trinidad and Tobago, paired with Caribbean rums. The Oxtail Old Fashioned blends oxtail-washed bourbon with sweet potato, sugar cane and Creole and Angostura bitters. Wines by the glass include selections from South Africa and Red Bear Winery in Sonoma, which Jordan co-founded with his father.

Night owls take note: the kitchen will remain open until 2 am – a welcome late-night addition to this area.

Lucia is located at 351 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036, United States.

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Carole Dixon is a prolific lifestyle writer-editor currently based in Los Angeles. As a Wallpaper* contributor since 2004, she covers travel, architecture, art, fashion, food, design, beauty, and culture for the magazine and online, and was formerly the LA City editor for the Wallpaper* City Guides to Los Angeles.