Xu restaurant review - London, UK

When the Nationalists fled to Taiwan in 1949, they took their culinary traditions (as well as China’s greatest treasures) along with them. Drawn from every corner of the Mainland, the glorious gallimaufry they created is what makes Taiwan one of Asia’s greatest culinary destinations. 

Now, Shing Tat Chung, Wai Ting Chung and Erchen Chang, the entrepreneurs behind London’s Bao, are expanding their mission to champion Taiwan with Xu, a restaurant and cocktail bar with a dedicated tea bar and master to teach Londoners to appreciate a better brew. 

Bringing much-needed sophistication to Rupert Street, its design and concept signals the young trio’s growing maturity and so to showcase the menu of Xiao Tsai titbits like smoked Taiwanese sausage and pan-fried dumplings, and mains like Sho Pa chicken and Lu Wei-style braised meats, the sleek minimalism of Bao has been traded for a 1930’s vibe. Created by BradyWilliams, the studio behind the period glamour of Fischer’s and the Wright Brothers, Xu’s panorama of glossy dark wood paneling, sea green upholstery and wooden ceiling fans channels Love in a Fallen City, while the intimate, blush-pink marble of its formal dining bar and ethereal shan sui landscapes add elegance to the lush, cinematic atmosphere.