Gridiron by COMO — London, UK
Gridiron by Como, a live-fire grill restaurant, has opened at Como Metropolitan London on Park Lane. When the hotel debuted as The Metropolitan in 1997 it was crowned the capital’s first hip hotel and heralded the arrival of the ‘lobby living’ and ‘mixology’ – concepts already causing a stir in Manhattan. Part of this high-octane formula included a destination restaurant – the first Nobu to open in the capital – and the paparazzi-magnet members-by-invitation-only Met Bar.
Well, now the latter has gone forever. Once the late night playground of creative ‘shakers and movers’ (to coin a late-1990s phrase), it was part of the hedonistic Britpop landscape which prompted Vanity Fair to declare ‘London swings again!’. But the Met Bar lost its cool around the turn of the millennium, although it continued to operate as a hotel bar. But now the space has been revived with the arrival of Gridiron by Como, a collaboration between Como-owner Christina Ong and British chef Richard H. Turner, executive chef of Hawksmoor and one half of independent butchers Turner & George.
Gone is the DJ booth, the red pyrolave-topped bar, and the snaking curve of red leather booth banquettes. The 62-cover restaurant is more spacious by comparison, and lighter, benefitting from an earlier renovation that opened up the old cloakroom, creating a bar seating area with windows overlooking Park Lane. Most impressive, is the addition of the exposed grill to allow for open-flame cooking in the open kitchen, which involved considerable work to install the necessary extraction units behind the scenes.
Front of house, red leather still figures on Porada dining chairs and bar stools, but its paired with a more sobering dark green leather upholstery. Now more modern British brasserie, than moody late night boîte, interior designers Macaulay Sinclair have matured the space with dark woods, richly veined calcutta rosso marble and brass detailing. Lighting is particularly elegant, created by one of Ong's favourite firms, the Paris-based L’Observatoire International. Black and white etchings of food and gridiron tools on the walls pay homage to the modern British menu which specialises in fire-cooked dishes.
Starters range from crisy fried squid to pig's head and black pudding croquettes. For mains there are numerous chops and steaks for meat lovers, their provenance clearly stated (natch) – Barnsley hogget, Shorthorn onglet, Dexter prime rib. However, fish options are equally hearty with the Dover sole meunière, brown butter and capers a standout, matched well witht the creamed spinach or the glazed grilled carrots.
For those wanting to raise a glass to the good old days, cocktails by Max and Noel Venning, of Dalston’s Three Sheets, are a good match to the libations of the bar's past. Revamped classics include a clarified White Russian and mustardy Bloody Mary. The Gridiron signature, with echoes of a Met Bar Whisky Sour, comes recommended.
When you reflect upon what ‘celebrity’ has come to be now in the reality TV era, its probably best the Met Bar lives no more. Gridiron by Como is proof that all good things come to an end, and when they do it’s best to try something entirely different.
INFORMATION
Website
ADDRESS
Old Park Ln
Mayfair
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Maude’s Brâncuși-inspired sex toys go on display in a new Paris exhibition
Maude’s design-led vibrators are now on display at Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, as part of ‘Private Lives: From the Bedroom to Social Media’. Brand founder Éva Goicochea talks to Wallpaper* about partnering with the museum and opening up cultural conversations around sex
By India Birgitta Jarvis Published
-
‘I was captivated by the idea of merging two iconic brands’: Nigo on his 1990s-inspired collaboration with Moncler and Mercedes-Benz
Unveiled at Moncler’s ‘The City of Genius’ event in Shanghai this past weekend, Japanese fashion designer Nigo unpacks his three-way collaboration with Moncler and Mercedes-Benz, which includes a play on the G-Class alongside a fashion collection in his eclectic style
By Jack Moss Published
-
Cathay Pacific’s new business class Aria Suites take flight
Cathay Pacific raises the bar for business-class travel with the launch of the much-anticipated Aria Suites
By Lauren Ho Published
-
Out of office: What the Wallpaper* editors have been doing this week
Team Wallpaper* are hard to pin down. Here's what our editors have been up to this week that might inspire your own downtime, from films to food, architours to musical interludes
By Charlotte Gunn Published
-
First look at Soma 2.0: a new nighttime highlight in east London
Fresh from its Soho roots, this newly opened London bar is set to redefine Canary Wharf’s nightlife – not least with its Indian-flavour-twist cocktails, as Neil Ridley discovers
By Neil Ridley Published
-
This new London restaurant bursts with Mexican flair and flavour
Fonda is London’s new Mexican restaurant, courtesy of chef Santiago Lastra, also behind Michelin-starred Kol. As Mary Cleary discovers, it’s serving up colour and creativity
By Mary Cleary Published
-
KOYN Thai brings high-end flair to London's West End
From Samyukta Nair and Fabled Studio comes a new restaurant with food drawn from the length and breadth of Thailand
By Ben McCormack Published
-
Where to eat sushi in London
From high-end hotels to supermarket pop-ups, food critic Ben McCormack recommends London's best sushi spots
By Ben McCormack Published
-
Kanpai! Discover the best bars to drink sake in London
Discover the best London bars in which to celebrate the ancient delight of sake
By Neil Ridley Published
-
London’s Covent Garden makes the perfect cosmopolitan backdrop for new British-French bistro, Henri
British chef Jackson Boxer and French designer Dorothée Meilichzon reunite for Henri, a restaurant located inside darling hotel, Henrietta
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Step inside Cowley Manor, a refreshed 300-plus-year-old spa hotel in the Cotswolds
Experience bucolic bliss at Cowley Manor, recently renovated by architects De Matos Ryan and interior designer Dorothée Meilichzon
By Daven Wu Published