In the world according to the Shilling Brewing Company, the gastropub has been supplanted by the brewpub, and you’ll find no complaints from us.
Looking more like the lovechild of Frank Lloyd-Wright than any pub we’ve been in recently, the Glaswegian watering hole has settled in nicely in the cavernous interiors of the old Bank of Scotland building.
The £1.5m retrofit, overseen by Jestico + Whiles, is respectful of the original space, though the lofty dimensions are now humanised by low-hanging lamps, and highly set communal benches and swivel stools.
The bulk of the stills is hidden behind the marble-slabbed bar counter, leaving only the shiny brass domes peeking out from behind a top-screen. At the opposite end, a 20-ft high trompe l’oeil mural of a rearing unicorn by local artist Gaz Mackay looms over a banquette emblazoned with stylized Scottish heraldic symbols.
The convivial communality of the space is reinforced by a simple menu of pizzas cooked in a cupola oven. Here, the dough is cut with baker’s and brewer’s yeast, topped with an unusual swatch of roasted pineapple ketchup, Irn Bru jam, mint yoghurt, Cajun chicken and, just in case you forget where you are, haggis.
Of course, the menu of house-brewed beers is the Shilling’s singular attraction – say cheers to the likes of ale spiced with rye whiskey, and a small batched rotational brew spiked with locally foraged nettles – each of which is accompanied by commendably detailed tasting notes.
ADDRESS
92 West George Street
-
Hanker after a 1970s supercar? The Encor Series 1 elevates the Lotus Esprit to a new levelThis limited-edition remastering of the dramatic wedge-shaped Lotus Esprit stops at nothing to improve and enhance the original without losing sight of its analogue excellence
-
A new photo book takes you behind the scenes of some of cinema's most beloved films, from 'Fargo' to 'Charlie's Angels'Set decorator Lauri Gaffin captures Hollywood's quieter moments in an arresting new book
-
This sculptural London seafood restaurant was shaped by ‘the emotions of the sea’In Hanover Square, Mazarine pairs a bold, pearlescent interior with modern coastal cuisine led by ‘bistronomy’ pioneer chef Thierry Laborde
-
This sculptural London seafood restaurant was shaped by ‘the emotions of the sea’
In Hanover Square, Mazarine pairs a bold, pearlescent interior with modern coastal cuisine led by ‘bistronomy’ pioneer chef Thierry Laborde
-
Montcalm Mayfair opens a new chapter for a once-overlooked London hotelA thoughtful reinvention brings craftsmanship, character and an unexpected sense of warmth to a London hotel that was never previously on the radar
-
Follow the white rabbit to London’s first Korean matcha houseTokkia, which translates to ‘Hey bunny’ in Korean, was designed by Stephenson-Edwards studio to feel like a modern burrow. Take a look inside
-
Enjoy a Kyoto-inspired menu with London attitude at this new restaurantAki London offers a serene counterpoint to Oxford Circus, where stately interiors and elevated Japanese cooking cross paths
-
At this charming bolthole in The Cotswolds, doing nothing is an art formLeave your mobile on ‘do not disturb’, switch off and slow down at this 16th-century manor-turned-hotel
-
Lee Broom reimagines the Christmas tree at Mandarin Oriental MayfairThe London hotel unveils an inventive take on the festive tradition – with absolutely no needles
-
Cinema’s tastiest moments to be celebrated by Mubi in an all-day festival‘Let’s Eat! A Film Feast’ spotlights the sensory power of food on film with a day of screenings, talks and culinary delights in London
-
Chef Matt Abé steps out solo with Bonheur in MayfairA former fine-dining institution is transformed through a study of light, tone and materiality, courtesy of Russell Sage Studio
