Nick Molyviatis spent his career in some of London’s most respected kitchens, including Kiln and Oma, before becoming co-owner of Singburi. For Zylia, he has teamed up with restaurateur Barry Karacostas, whose Cypriot heritage and two decades in hospitality informs the menu alongside Molyviatis’s Athenian upbringing. The result is a contemporary Greek-Cypriot taverna shaped by childhood memory, family recipes and professional experience – and a shared obsession with charcoal grills.
Wallpaper* dines at Zylia, London
The mood: Built on contrast
The idea for Zylia’s interiors took shape over several Cypriot beers in Nicosia. Architect and Red Deer co-founder Lionel Real de Azúa was being shown around Cyprus by Karacostas when the pair began talking about the contrast between sleek modern design and the pieces Karacostas had grown up surrounded by. ‘We wanted to bring together the confidence and elegance of the London hospitality scene with the warmth, generosity and familiarity of your giagiá’s dining table or local taverna,’ Real de Azúa says.
Delicate Lefkara lace sits against stainless steel tables and shelving, handwoven wicker bread baskets sourced from Limassol rest against stripped-back London brick, and a service counter is built from stone quarried at Gerolakkos. ‘Nothing is intended to feel nostalgic,’ Real de Azúa says, ‘but everything carries a sense of memory and patina.’ His reference point throughout was Diporto, the 139-year-old taverna in a basement near Athens Central Market. ‘The materials are simple, the proportions are right, and the beauty comes from authenticity.’
The other reference point came from the menu itself, with Molyviatis’s sheftalia – small, rustic, packing a punch – becoming a kind of metaphor for the design brief. ‘There’s a directness to both the food and the interior,’ Real de Azúa says of details such as traditional Cypriot tiles and green leather booths. ‘Warmth comes from texture, craftsmanship and use rather than embellishment.’
The food: Dip and mix
Those sheftalia appear as four chubby caul fat-wrapped pork parcels resting on sliced onion, parsley and sumac – but before that, order some bread, which arrives as a basket of oregano-flecked warm pitta to dredge through creamy-and-crunchy taramasalata with cracked carob rusk or smashed feta and yoghurt adorned with a roasted chilli pepper to mash up for heat.
Then it’s a case of pick-and-mixing your way through a selection of small plates such as Metsovone cheese balls slicked with honey, or a contemporary spin on spanakopita presented as a pastry stack of crispy hand-stretched filo, before hitting up the charcoal grill for a heap of chops (pork, beef or lamb), or the house special of milk-fed lamb shoulder kleftiko, a blanket of slow-cooked comfort food. Either way, a bowl of hand-cut chips is non-negotiable.
Wines are Greek, beers Cypriot and the cocktails a blend of cutting-edge mixology and Mediterranean ingredients: as creative a blend of heritage and here-and-now as the rest of this place.
Zylia is located at 6 Bedford Street, London, WC2E 9HZ, United Kingdom