Every London village needs its butcher, baker and, if not a candlestick maker, then a fishmonger. All are to be found on Chelsea’s Pavilion Road, which over the past decade has established itself as one of London’s smartest foodie thoroughfares. Now, after seven years of success, the street’s resident fishmonger, The Sea, The Sea, has moved over the street into bigger new digs, where the original fresh fish counter-cum-chef’s table concept has been expanded and joined by a 40-cover bistro upstairs and a terrace for 28 out front.
Wallpaper* dines at The Sea, The Sea
The mood: Restaurant and retail
Designer Benjamin Wilkins worked on the first iteration of The Sea, The Sea and says he ‘borrowed from the brand DNA, which I broke down into three core elements: the hard-working utilitarianism of the seafood industry, the natural beauty of the food offering, and the comfort of the guest.’
Weathered timber and textured plaster contrast with stainless steel and bright lighting in the downstairs seafood shop to evoke the energy of a fish market in Cornwall or Scotland, where much of the produce for sale on the central ice-display table is sourced from small boats. Come the evening, the table transforms into a seafood bar for 10 diners, surrounded by dry-ageing cabinets displaying house-aged fish.
As The Sea, The Sea founder Alex Hunter explains: ‘First and foremost, this is an operationally practical design. We’re effectively running two businesses – restaurant and retail – in one building, so that operational efficiency is paramount, but we do it in a way that feels clean, un-muddled and elegant, much like the plating of our food.’
Upstairs in the bistro, Wilkins says that ‘the existing pitched ceiling evokes the hull of a fishing boat and lends itself to the narrative of the space.’ Which is to say an airy and unpretentious room where art from Patrick Caulfield and Alexander Massouras lines the walls. Fans of the original The Sea, The Sea will find it comfortingly familiar; for newcomers, it’s convivial and relaxed.
The food: Quite the catch
Aged John Dory, Maitake and Red Rice Vinegar
Hunter numbers some of London’s best restaurants among his clients – two-Michelin-starred Ikoyi and one-star Kol buy their fish from him – so rest assured that the quality is top-notch. Head chef Nick Marsden has the likes of Dovetale, Pitt Cue and The Laughing Heart on his CV, so is a dab hand at putting together plates that offer sophisticated simplicity: pickled Fowey mussels with sunsweet melon and lovage from the raw bar, perhaps, ahead of grilled half Cornish lobster with vin jaune sabayon.
Silver Mullet, Peas and White Asparagus
Small plates include cuttlefish ragu with salsify and green almond, while larger plates to share take in whole fish such as plaice with wild garlic, capers and pickled dulse (the shop has its own seaweed counter). And of course there are oysters everywhere, presented with cucumber and apple vinaigrette on the side and the option to add the restaurant’s in-house caviar per oyster.
Apple Cake, Cherry and Thyme
In a hurry? There are freshly prepared lunch boxes to take away, whether ready-to-eat sashimi sets and shellfish rolls or a miso black cod or Singapore chilli crab to put in the oven. After all, what else would you expect to find in Chelsea than London’s poshest ready meals?
The Sea, The Sea is located at 243 Pavilion Road, London, SW1X 0BP, United Kingdom