Sushi Yoshinaga and sake bar Omasake bring Tokyo experiences to Paris
Sushi Yoshinaga and Omasake celebrate the coexistence of different universes in downtown Tokyo; situated within 27/4, a multipurpose hospitality project in Paris
Laidback sake bar Omasake (word play of Omakase and sake) is the perfect counterpart for Sushi Yoshinaga, a Japanese haute-cuisine restaurant. Both are found within 27/4, a three-storey building named after its address, 27 rue du 4 Septembre, in the heart of Paris. More than just a building, it is an ambitious project founded by the young French entrepreneur Paul Dupuy along with Damien Melon and other co-associates.
Dupuy, a Japan aficionado and frequent traveller to the Far East, has always been fascinated by the multi-tenant buildings in Tokyo. ‘Store, office, karaoke box and restaurant… I especially love the small structures filling back streets of Ginza, where different universes are piled from one floor to another yet coexist in harmony. I deliberately wanted to reproduce this aspect of Tokyo in Paris,' says the entrepreneur.
The core idea was translated into the interior design of 27/4 by Sala Hars, the architect duo comprising Douglas Harsevoort and former Toyo Ito disciple Juan Sala, an American and a Colombian respectively. This dream team has reunited following Dupuy’s first Sushi restaurant Yoshino in New York and Sushi Shunei in Montmartre, Paris.
Sake bar Omasake
Omasake faces the street and stands out from its neighbours’ classic Parisian façades of limestone, with its glass vitrine highlighted by a three-dimensional logo designed by Yorgo Tloupas, revealing a series of illuminated hexagonal frames within. The space age-style interior – 'Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey meets modern Tokyo', according to Dupuy – is made of mainly industrial materials such as stainless steel, copper and concrete, but cosiness is added by upholstered seats and wall panels.
The hexagon motif is repeated on the metallic cover of the menu, which lists a range of intriguing cocktails with Japanese touches, such as Shoga (ginger) Mule and Hojicha Martini. In addition, a selection of rare sake spreads across nearly ten pages. Starters and other dishes feature complex combinations, for example, 'duck, marinated in rice yeast and sake, roasted with black vinegar', offer unexpected yet delightful flavours. A subtle sake flavour pervades the menu, created and supervised by chef Tomoyuki Yoshinaga.
Sushi Yoshinaga
Chef Yoshinaga takes up his position behind the counter at Sushi Yoshinaga on the upper floor of 27/4. At the top of the metallic staircase, a mysterious corridor surrounded by several hidden doors comes into sight. It’s like stepping into a parallel universe in the novels of Haruki Murakami. Behind one of the doors emerges an intimate yet highly graphic space with Daniel Buren-ish stripes.
The warm caramel colour of the maple wood contrasts with the brightest white of the inlaid lightboxes. The lighting creates an immersive moment that goes gradually from dazzling to soft. On the L-shaped counter, there are ten place settings, with a silvery grey tableware specially made by Japanese ceramic artist Masanobu Ando. Unusual to Sushi counters, Yoshinaga’s working space has the same crockery as the guests’, forming an aesthetic unity between the entertained and the entertainer.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Once all the guests are seated, a ceremonial 'omakase' (fixed menu or chef’s suggestion) course begins. A prelude of four appetisers, kicked off with steamed lobster and simmered melting octopus, is followed by a dozen nigiris, including a trilogy of tuna (red, semi-fat and fat). A special mention goes to the quality of seaweed that enhances the maki. Wrapping up the course is more lobster, featured both as the key ingredient and bouillon in a miso soup. The epilogue, a very special dessert, is a trio of matcha ice cream of three different densities, exclusively created by Alain Ducasse. After two intensive hours, sophisticated palates are more than satisfied.
At the other end of the corridor, the T-Room, with a long, waxed cement table, is set to be added to the 27/4 project. The space is reserved for temporary events ('pop ups', though Dupuy is not fond of the term), such as a tea or sake tasting or a private dinner. Finally, a tiny funky karaoke bar, K-Room, with pink and violet light fixtures, is due to be completed in the basement. Navigating from one universe to another in one evening at 27/4 will soon be possible.
Minako Norimatsu is a Japanese journalist and consultant based in Paris. Extremely curious about everything creative, her field ranges from fashion to art, dance, hospitality and travel. She has interviewed many Japanese fashion designers and artists for Wallpaper*, as well as non-Japanese creatives whose inspirations are drawn from Japan.
-
Louis Fratino leans into queer cultural history in Italy
Louis Fratino’s 'Satura', on view at the Centro Pecci in Italy, engages with queer history, Italian landscapes and the body itself
By Sam Moore Published
-
A new book from the Modernist Society focuses on a golden age of British graphic design
‘Modernist Graphic Design in Britain 1945-1980’ looks at all the ways in which post-war graphic design shaped the nation, from new typography to poster art, book design and more
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
We tour Monaco’s Mareterra neighbourhood: where minimalist architecture and marine research meet
Mareterra, a contemporary enclave with designs by Renzo Piano offers homes, a new coastal promenade, a dynamic Alexander Calder sculpture and an atmospheric social hub extending the breezy, minimalist spirit of Larvotto Beach
By Harriet Thorpe Published
-
First look at Maison 3, an eclectic new Parisian bar for sleepless nights
Maison 3 is an enigmatic space with a sensual atmosphere brought to life by the French studio Les Beaux Jours Architectures
By Fabienne Dupuis Published
-
Dine at Paris’s historic Maison Baccarat, reimagined by chef Alain Ducasse
The newly opened Ducasse Baccarat restaurant – at the crystal house’s Paris mansion – offers not just a culinary experience but a cultural encounter
By Minako Norimatsu Published
-
Stylish Paris ice cream parlours for melting moments
Cool off with the best ice cream in Paris: Wallpaper’s favourite scoops span from classics at chef Alain Ducasse's ‘glacerie’ to ice cream sandwiches at JJ Hings
By Nicola Leigh Stewart Published
-
Taste Japan from the comfort of Hakuba at Cheval Blanc Paris Hôtel
New restaurant Hakuba offers an authentic omakase experience orchestrated by chef Takuya Watanabe and pastry chef Maxime Frédéric
By Nicola Leigh Stewart Published
-
Paris’ Hôtel de Crillon celebrates the art of skateboarding with a new exhibition
Hôtel de Crillon and The Skateroom anticipate skateboarding’s return at the Paris 2024 Olympics with a special collaboration
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Experience Paris like a local at Hôtel Balzac
Hôtel Balzac reopens its doors following a 1930s-inspired renovation by Festen Architecture
By Fabienne Dupuis Published
-
Public House brings a taste of good old London to Paris
Chef Calum Franklin opens Public House, a British-style pub and brasserie in Paris boasting interiors by Laura Gonzalez
By Nicola Leigh Stewart Published
-
Spend the night in Mathieu Lehanneur’s Musée D’Orsay Airbnb in Paris
Mathieu Lehanneur, designer of the Paris Olympic torch, turns Musée D‘Orsay’s clock room into an Airbnb, which comes with a chance to watch the Olympic opening ceremony
By Bridget Downing Published