The warmth and comfort of Paris restaurant Margaux: ‘It’s like feasting at grandma’s’

Perfectly positioned on Avenue de New York, between the Paris landmarks of the Trocadéro and the Grand Palais, Margaux is a new restaurant that, at first glance, delivers all the classic clichés: views of the Eiffel Tower, a traditional bistro set-up, pommes paille... Yet, once you're inside, it pleasantly surprises with its inviting menu, attentive service, and a heartwarming family-oriented backstory.

Wallpaper* dines at Margaux, Paris

The mood: postcard-worthy

If Margaux were a person, she’d likely resemble the one in the logo adorning the restaurant – a sketch of an older woman with a pearl necklace and a cigarette in hand. The menu draws on the comfort of a homely meal. ‘It’s like feasting at grandma’s,’ says owner Michel Puech. The menu, led by chef Paul-Alexandre Laumont, celebrates French classics that evoke the warmth and familiarity of family meals.

The interiors nod to times past, drawing inspiration from traditional French restaurants – think wood panelling, bistro chairs, white tablecloths, and ceramic crockery. ‘Margaux’s walls are adorned with frames of vintage photos, and you’ll also find old copies of the French daily Le Monde, their pages yellowed by the passage of time,’ explains Puech.

Terracotta tiles cover the floor, and two wooden centrepieces – the monumental china cabinet at the entrance and the lectern – transport guests to another era. Art deco accents at the bar and candles flickering on tables in the evening further enhance the intimate atmosphere. Margaux is a place filled with thoughtful details. ‘At the end of the meal, we slip the bill into books that belonged to my grandmother,’ shares Puech.

The food: Mémé is cooking

Taste and memory are explored through a selection of French classics. The menu is straightforward, divided into four sections: starters, salads, mains, and desserts – each worth experiencing. Timeless dishes, like onion soup, pâté en croûte, and endive salad with Roquefort, offer a taste of tradition. Favourites like Pot-au-feu, chicken cordon bleu, and vol-au-vent are served generously in vintage ceramics. And, of course, there’s fondue – either Savoyarde or Royale à la Truffe.

On the wine front, French terroirs take centre stage, with selections from Burgundy to Languedoc chosen to complement the traditional flavours. For those looking to extend the evening, a menu of classic and signature cocktails promises delightful surprises.

When it comes to desserts, the choices are indulgent: tarte Tatin, crème brûlée, choux à la crème, and mousse au chocolat – there’s no wrong choice. But for an authentic Parisian touch, nothing beats the zesty crêpe Suzette, served in a caramelised orange sauce and flambéed tableside.

Margaux is located at 10 Av. de New York, 75116 Paris, France; restaurantmargaux.com