Morchella, in Clerkenwell, serves Mediterranean classics and Old World wine
Morchella restaurant and wine bar brings finely crafted cosy chic to a former bank near Exmouth Market, London

Morchella is the new Clerkenwell hotspot from the team behind Perilla, the Newington Green restaurant known for its experimental take on European cuisine. Much like its north London sibling, this new eatery serves inventive dishes in a beautifully crafted setting, but co-founder Matthew Emmerson (who runs both projects with chef Ben Marks) says Morchella is one of a kind: ‘We have intentionally done things differently. Morchella is its own entity.’
Step inside Morchella
The starting point for Mochella was the site itself. ‘We’ve always been led by area and building,’ says Emmerson. ‘It had to have a certain ambiance, and we weren’t prepared to compromise on space or light.’ A former bank located around the corner from Exmouth Market ticked their boxes. Built in 1894, it had incredibly intricate details, soaring ceilings and – crucially – large south-west-facing windows that meant light would beam in throughout the day. ‘It just felt right,’ Emmerson continues. ‘It had bare bones, and the building was beautiful. We knew we could create a room that would be amazing to dine in.’
Morchella might have a certain level of grandiosity and splendour, but stuffy it is not. Instead, it is warm and welcoming, cosy and chic – particularly in the evening when illuminated by candlelight. ‘Our vision was to mix the old British building with the lush, light tones of the Mediterranean,’ says Emmerson, who worked with Up Architects on the project. ‘We worked hard to restore the original features. That included the curved restaurant doors and the wood panelling, which had been painted with hundreds of coats of paint. That was a painstaking process but worth it.’
The colour scheme is neutral, featuring elements of emerald green – see the tiles on the kitchen counter, for instance – while the material palette is defined predominately by wood. ‘We worked with Tim Parker on the joinery, and the level of detail is incredible, from the curved corners of the bar mirrored in the banquettes to the T junction where every bit of oak meets,’ says Emmerson. Clever round bar stools that fold away and slick dining tables, which feature drawers, home to the menu and cutlery, within a terrazzo frame, are particularly noteworthy.
At the heart of the 68-seat restaurant lies the kitchen, which is decorated with graphic prints by artist and Marks’ grandfather Gordon House, paintings by Corin Kennington and Murano-inspired chandeliers. From here, head chef Daniel Fletcher cooks Mediterreanean-inspired dishes with surprising twists: small sharing plates include red prawn pil pil and salt cod churros, and larger dishes, such as monkfish with cuttlefish, pork jowl and fish stew. Save room for dessert and order the blood-orange, black-olive portokalopita.
Morchella also houses a private 14-seat dining room downstairs and a separate adjacent wine bar that services the restaurant. Here, gorgeous terracotta tiles run underfoot, the walls have been painted a pleasing shade of chalky green, and the same emerald tiles from the kitchen counter front of the bar. As Emmerson explains, ‘There’s a synergy between both spaces, but they each have their own personality.’
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Billie Brand is a London-based writer and editor. She has previously held positions at The Modern House, Matches, The Guardian and Observer, and contributed to titles including World of Interiors, i-D and The Face. Her work has a particular focus on beautifully designed and innovative spaces and places – and the forward-thinking people behind them.
-
Bees can now check in at Kew’s new pollinator hotel
At Wakehurst, Kew’s wild botanic garden, artist Kristina Pulejkova unveils four functional sculptures that tell the hidden story of seeds and act as a refuge for bees during the heat of summer
-
Andu Masebo and The Singleton’s bespoke furniture celebrates the beauty in slow craft
British designer Andu Masebo collaborates with single malt Scotch whisky The Singleton on a multifunctional furniture piece boasting minimal design codes
-
Inside a midcentury modern house so good, its architect didn’t want to mess with it
‘I was immediately a little bit frightened, because it was such a great house,’ says architect Casper Mork-Ulnes of Roger Lee-designed gem in Berkeley, California
-
This hidden London culinary haven is a refreshing take on the steakhouse
Mr Porter, a new steakhouse, bar and lounge in central London's swish Mayfair, is a hidden haven of strong flavours and minimalist dining
-
A European-style café opens next to London’s Saatchi Gallery
Designed by Dion & Arles, Cafe Linea serves fresh pâtisseries, global dishes and sparkling wines in a stunning Grade II-listed setting
-
Anya Hindmarch’s Ice Cream Project is London’s tastiest (and weirdest) summer tradition
The cult pop-up has returned, transforming a Belgravia corner into a sleek, steel-clad shrine to British pantry nostalgia
-
The best bars in London for bartending greatness
From chic hotel cocktail classics to game-changing flavour combinations, our resident drinks correspondent, Neil Ridley, explores ten of the best bars in London
-
NoMad London’s new restaurant fast-tracks you to New York’s jazz age
Martin Brudnizki Design Studio conjures up old-world glamour at Twenty8 NoMad, where the menu features nearly as many martini variations as main courses
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria Angelina
A Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
-
This Hackney bar is reviving London’s legacy of lesbian spaces
Designed by Studio Popelo and Wet Studio, La Camionera emerges as a vital sanctuary for London’s FLINTA* community, honouring it right down to the details
-
Time-travel to the golden age of the cruise ship at Sea Containers London
The South Bank hotel celebrates its tenth anniversary with four new suites inspired by period cabin design, from Edwardian elegance to 1980s glamour