Morchella, in Clerkenwell, serves Mediterranean classics and Old World wine

Morchella is the new Clerkenwell hotspot from the team behind Perilla, the Newington Green restaurant known for its experimental take on European cuisine. Much like its north London sibling, this new eatery serves inventive dishes in a beautifully crafted setting, but co-founder Matthew Emmerson (who runs both projects with chef Ben Marks) says Morchella is one of a kind: ‘We have intentionally done things differently. Morchella is its own entity.’

Step inside Morchella

The starting point for Mochella was the site itself. ‘We’ve always been led by area and building,’ says Emmerson. ‘It had to have a certain ambiance, and we weren’t prepared to compromise on space or light.’ A former bank located around the corner from Exmouth Market ticked their boxes. Built in 1894, it had incredibly intricate details, soaring ceilings and – crucially – large south-west-facing windows that meant light would beam in throughout the day. ‘It just felt right,’ Emmerson continues. ‘It had bare bones, and the building was beautiful. We knew we could create a room that would be amazing to dine in.’

Morchella might have a certain level of grandiosity and splendour, but stuffy it is not. Instead, it is warm and welcoming, cosy and chic – particularly in the evening when illuminated by candlelight. ‘Our vision was to mix the old British building with the lush, light tones of the Mediterranean,’ says Emmerson, who worked with Up Architects on the project. ‘We worked hard to restore the original features. That included the curved restaurant doors and the wood panelling, which had been painted with hundreds of coats of paint. That was a painstaking process but worth it.’

The colour scheme is neutral, featuring elements of emerald green – see the tiles on the kitchen counter, for instance – while the material palette is defined predominately by wood. ‘We worked with Tim Parker on the joinery, and the level of detail is incredible, from the curved corners of the bar mirrored in the banquettes to the T junction where every bit of oak meets,’ says Emmerson. Clever round bar stools that fold away and slick dining tables, which feature drawers, home to the menu and cutlery, within a terrazzo frame, are particularly noteworthy.

At the heart of the 68-seat restaurant lies the kitchen, which is decorated with graphic prints by artist and Marks’ grandfather Gordon House, paintings by Corin Kennington and Murano-inspired chandeliers. From here, head chef Daniel Fletcher cooks Mediterreanean-inspired dishes with surprising twists: small sharing plates include red prawn pil pil and salt cod churros, and larger dishes, such as monkfish with cuttlefish, pork jowl and fish stew. Save room for dessert and order the blood-orange, black-olive portokalopita.

Morchella also houses a private 14-seat dining room downstairs and a separate adjacent wine bar that services the restaurant. Here, gorgeous terracotta tiles run underfoot, the walls have been painted a pleasing shade of chalky green, and the same emerald tiles from the kitchen counter front of the bar. As Emmerson explains, ‘There’s a synergy between both spaces, but they each have their own personality.’

morchelladining.co.uk