La Môme London finds its home at The Berkeley hotel
All the razzle-dazzle of Cannes and Monte Carlo is wrapped up in this one fabulous dining room and terrace in London
What was the distinctly dreary Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley has been given a shot of Mediterranean sunshine with the arrival of La Môme. The dining room is the first international outpost of a Riviera-based operation with restaurants in Monte Carlo and Cannes, where it occupies a whole street just off the Croisette.
Wallpaper* dines at La Môme London
The mood: Côte d’Azur chic
La Môme was the nickname of Lucienne Suzanne Vreurick, a legendary 1920s hostess who threw lavish parties at her art deco home, the Villa Bagatelle, perched above the Bay of Cannes. The restaurant’s twin-brother owners Ugo and Antoine Lecorché hope to channel her spirit of classic hospitality, whether with cocktails and small bites at the ten-seater bar or full-blown meals in the 220-cover dining room and newly created heated terrace. Sleek interiors with walls hung with Slim Aarons photos come courtesy of Cannes-based interior architect Samy Chams, and evening entertainment from a pianist, singers and DJs.
The food: Festival de Cannes
Signature classics from La Môme Cannes have made the move to London. Dishes straddle the French-Italian border with a dash of Asia in the likes of seared tuna with XO sauce and Black Angus tagliata with truffle and rocket. Many dishes are finished at the table with a snip of thyme here or a deboned fish there, while the tables themselves are as important as what’s on them: whole tabletops are changed by waiters carrying freshly laid replacements above their heads.
La Môme London is located at The Berkeley, Wilton Pl, London SW1X 7RL, UK; lamomelondon.com
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Ben McCormack is a London-based restaurant journalist with over 25 years’ experience of writing. He has been the restaurant expert for Telegraph Luxury since 2013, for which he was shortlisted in the Restaurant Writer category at the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards. He is a regular contributor to the Evening Standard, Food and Travel and Decanter. He lives in west London with his partner and lockdown cockapoo.
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