The return of Genghis Cohen: LA’s cult Chinese diner lives on

Genghis Cohen, the 42-year-old beloved institution – frequented by everyone from multi-generational families to celebrities, musicians, and skateboarders – has officially reopened in its new space on Fairfax Avenue. Since first opening in 1983, the restaurant has been a fixture of LA’s dining scene, and owners Marc Rose and Med Abrous (of La Dolce Vita and The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel) have remained steadfast in their mission to preserve this slice of local history, which they have owned and operated for the past decade.

Wallpaper* dines at Genghis Cohen, Los Angeles

The mood: a time warp into an old-school Chinese diner

With design input from Jared Frank (of Wildcrust in Highland Park), the team has resurrected the kitschy, retro 1950s Chinese-American haunt just a few blocks down from its original site – now neighbours with Jon & Vinny’s, Badmaash, and the new Lucia. The new location retains many of the original’s quintessential details: red booths, silk dragons suspended from the ceiling, and an array of red paper lanterns in varied sizes. Newer additions include more neon, mirrored walls, bold red carpeting, and teal accents, with a few large round tables at the front fitted with lazy Susans for easy sharing.

The bar area is now significantly larger, seating 12, and features a fishtank alongside an expanded cocktail list, including the new frozen, Dole Whip-inspired Dole Survivor. While there’s no longer space for the long-standing Genghis Cohen Live sessions (formerly held at the Kibitz Room in the old venue), the live music tradition continues across the street at Canter’s Deli – another Fairfax legend – every Wednesday and Thursday.

The food: don’t forget the egg rolls

The menu is extensive, and narrowing down choices will be a challenge; best to come with friends, as it’s one of the few cool LA spots where you can order a generous spread without breaking the bank. Old favourites return, including New York egg rolls packed with shrimp, pork, and vegetables, Crackerjack shrimp, and Queen chicken. Other standouts include sautéed green beans with garlic, cold sesame noodles in a light peanut sauce, and the triple kung pao – a lively mix of chicken, beef, shrimp, and candied walnuts – or the sweet and sour pork.

A new addition, the Szechuan chicken sliders – made with crispy fried chicken, Szechuan mayo, the restaurant’s signature slaw, and pickles on a King’s Hawaiian bun – are available exclusively from the late-night bar menu after 10pm.

Classic ‘foo foo’ cocktails endure: the lychee martini, Szechuan margarita, and a timeless mai tai, plus a dedicated martini section. For the indecisive, the trio of mini ‘tinis offers a playful sampler, while groups can share the Seinfeld, Party of Four punch bowl. And for a touch of Hollywood lore: Seinfeld creator Larry David is a long-time regular, and the original Genghis Cohen famously inspired the show’s legendary ‘The Chinese Restaurant’ episode.

Genghis Cohen is located at 448 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036, United States.