Los Angeles’s recent boom of modern cantinas shows no signs of slowing down. Case in point is this month’s opening in Hollywood, which arrives hot on the heels of a sister property in Malibu, both by Hospitality 70 Group, the team behind the beloved of Frida Mexican restaurants all across LA County.
Wallpaper* dines at La Nena Cantina
The mood: a Hollywood watering hole with a Mexican vibe
Walk past the Columbia Plaza outdoor patio on lively Sunset Blvd. into a calming indoor space designed by Jagar Architecture’s Jose Gonzales, with an organic colour palette featuring Roman clay walls and terracotta tiles. The long cedar bar, brushed and waxed, is perfect for drinks and full dining. Lighting is subtle, with natural fibre pendants and dimmed alabaster brass counter lamps.
The main dining room wall mural is a drawing by Mexican artist Cándida Peña on ink and paper, then carefully adhered to the wall using a wheat paste technique, finished with gilding and metallic brass and white tones, just above the light wood table booths with comfortable leather seating.
The food: complex mole and mezcal
Elotes
At this Hollywood cantina, everything is made from scratch, from handmade tortillas to sauces, and many signature dishes involve labour-intensive preparation rooted in traditional techniques. For example, the mole 'poblano' from Puebla includes over 40 ingredients, such as dried chillies, nuts, seeds, spices and a hint of chocolate. The hours-long process begins with individually toasting and grinding each ingredient to release its unique flavours, then slowly simmering everything together into a deep, rich sauce.
The mole 'negro’, originating from Oaxaca, has a darker and smokier profile, prepared with roasted chillies, plantains, nuts and spices. And when Hospitality 70 Group president and CEO, Vicente del Río, recommends a cocktail, take note: the Adelita, with 1800 Tequila, pineapple, cucumber and fresh lime, offers the perfect balance for spicy dishes.
Watermelon Margarita
La Nena Cantina is located at 6115 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood, CA 90028, United States.
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