Bica is one of the first words that any caffeine-drinking visitor to Lisbon should learn, for it translates as ‘espresso’. Its origins aren’t clear: some say it stands for Beba Isto Com Açúcar, which means ‘Drink this with sugar’ and dates back to the early 20th century when coffee, a bitter drink, was first introduced to Portugal.
Others argue it means ‘spout’ as from a pot or a fountain, and that there was once one near here, which the restaurant drew on to name itself ‘the spout of the shoe’. One thing is certain, though, it is also the name for the tap used to pour a draught beer (imperial), and here, in this new incarnation of a legendary Lisbon spot, the taps are designed by Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus.
Wallpaper* dines at Bica do Sapato, Lisbon
The mood: alluringly, unmistakably Lisbon
The newly opened Bica do Sapato is, quite simply, a homage to both its past and the soul of the city whose waterfront it graces. Launched originally in the early 2000s with John Malkovich as a partner (which inevitably raised its profile), it was then the place to go for a good night out. It offered an unusual level of sophistication, music and dancing, access to both politicians and creatives, good food and the scent of a promising future, one that Lisbon has indeed fulfilled.
In 2019, it closed for renovation and was almost lost to history, but a new group of investors have brought it back to the market. Where, in a much more competitive landscape, it not only holds its own, restaurant-wise, it delivers a slice of nostalgia to those who frequented it in their youth and a dazzling display of contemporary Portuguese design for those who are flocking to it now.
Although architect Francisco Tojal is the key player in this new reconfiguration of Bica do Sapato, ‘built by Portuguese matter, shaped by Portuguese hands’, he collaborated closely with Manuel Aires Mateus, honouring the soul of the original building while opening it up to new rhythms. Mateus designed the custom beer taps specifically for here, while the vast wine rack, an integral part of its first chapter and now taking centre stage in the main room, was created by one of the original owners, Manel Reis. The chairs, a legendary design by Daciano da Costa, are pulled up to tables, divided by curtains acting as permeable walls, designed by textile artist Maria Appleton.
Apart from the main restaurant, Bica do Sapato, which opens for breakfast and off where the Bar and dance floor run late into the night on a Friday and Saturday, there is also Trinca do Sapato, with more casual tapas fare on the Mezzanine and À Beira do Sapato, a takeaway counter, promising dishes which are ‘fast and flavourful, and grounded in local habits.’
The food: the best of Portugal’s culinary heritage
It is immediately evident that the chef, Milton Anes, at Bica do Sapato, cooks with real passion. Perhaps because he has come home to the food of his forefathers. Born in Paris, to a Portuguese family, these dishes are the flavours of his childhood, the aromas which coloured his memories. He ensures minimal food wastage, working with an in-house butcher and fishmonger to send prime cuts to one restaurant kitchen, but the flavourful bones and more humble cuts to the other.
Supplies are sourced locally, dishes dazzle, whether an unassuming plate of sautéed turnip greens with olive oil and garlic, a traditional seafood açorda (a kind of bread stew) or a roasted royal pigeon in rosemary butter and seeds, glazed with pomegranate molasses, truffled celeriac millefeuille, caramelised persimmons and kalamansi. Try his piri-piri quail, a twist on the classic chicken dish, here served with potato chips, chillies and lime or his Algarve prawn carpaccio with spinach salad and yuzu vinaigrette; fresh, zingy and more than memorable enough to pull you back through the door for more.
Bica do Sapato is located at Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazém B, Cais da Pedra, Santa Apolónia, Lisbon, 1950-376, Portugal