A local’s guide to Seoul by artist Guimi You

‘To me, Seoul is more than just the familiar city I grew up in. It is a great source of pride,’ says artist Guimi You, whose dreamlike oil paintings soothingly drift between urban energy and the calm of nature. Across themes of kinship, isolation, and the dialogue between East Asian and Western artistic traditions, You renders scenes that flow and transport. Movement and stillness eloquently coexist on her canvases, giving each two-dimensional world a vivid sense of life.

Born and raised in Seoul, You spent a decade abroad – first in London, where she earned an MA in painting from London’s Royal College of Art in 2014, and later in California, which had a significant influence on her journey as an artist. This distance renewed her attachment to the city where she grew up: its cultural pulse, heritage and traditions, and the people she describes as home.

‘I feel proud of the Korean people, who are naturally accustomed to moving quickly and living with such energy and diligence, and of the many fields they have created and continue to develop,’ she tells Wallpaper*.

The Han River, which, in a way, both unites and divides Seoul, remains one of You’s greatest inspirations. ‘I believe that having such a vast river flowing through the heart of such a large metropolis is one of Seoul’s greatest treasures,’ she says. Its shifting colours and atmosphere inspired Us, on the Han River (2026), which depicts a couple crossing the water in a swan-shaped pedal boat at sunset, and is currently being presented by Lehmann Maupin at Frieze Seoul 2026 (2-5 September).

‘I especially love arriving at the river around sunset, watching the sky transform with the evening light, and staying until nightfall to experience the beautiful cityscape illuminated after dark,’ she adds. Here, You shares the places that define her hometown, from neighbourhoods lined with quaint stalls to art institutions filled with creative treasures. This is Guimi You’s Seoul.

What to see and do in Seoul, Guimi You’s tips

Where to stay

Bukchon Hanok Village

‘For international visitors coming to Korea for Frieze Seoul, I would recommend experiencing a hanok (a traditional Korean home) in Bukchon Hanok Village, a historic residential neighbourhood situated between Gyeongbokgung Palace and Changdeokgung Palace, with traditional hanok houses clustered throughout the area. It is not a neighbourhood created solely for tourism; people still live there today, which gives the area a very authentic atmosphere.’

Bukchon Hanok Village is located at Gyedong-gil, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea

Where to eat and drink

Hamgyeongdo Chapssal Sundae

‘If you’ve just arrived in Seoul and jet lag keeps you awake at night, take a taxi to Hamgyeongdo Chapssal Sundae. It’s open 24 hours, so you can go there anytime. It’s one of Seoul’s well-known restaurants for sundaeguk (blood sausage soup), and it’s been my favourite since I was a student. When you eat the meat in the soup, try dipping it in saeujeot (salted and fermented shrimp condiment).’

Hamgyeongdo Chapssal Sundae is located at 32 Songpa-daero 28-gil, Songpa District, Seoul, South Korea

Namdaemun Market

‘Namdaemun Market is always worth visiting. You can find almost anything there. If you get hungry, head to the grilled fish alley, where restaurants cook fresh fish over charcoal.’

Namdaemun Market is located at 21 Namdaemunsijang 4-gil, Jung District, Seoul, South Korea

Songnidan-gil Street

‘Songnidan-gil Street is full of unique cafés and restaurants, and it’s close to Seokchon Lake, Lotte World Mall, and Lotte World Tower. It’s a good place to spend an afternoon without any particular plan.’

Baekjegobun-ro 43-gil, Songpa District, Seoul, South Korea

Starfield Coex Mall

‘If you need a meal while visiting Frieze Seoul, head down to the basement level of Starfield Coex Mall. I recommend two places: Gangnam Gyoza and Hadongkwan. At Gangnam Gyoja, order kalguksu (hand-cut noodle soup). At Hadongkwan, try gomtang, a clear beef soup that has long been enjoyed in Korea. Both are classic local dishes. If you enjoy spicy food, have them with kimchi.’

Starfield Coex Mall is located at 513 Yeongdong-daero, Gangnam District, Seoul, South Korea

What to do

MMCA Deoksugung

‘The National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art has several branches, but my favourite is the one within the grounds of Deoksugung Palace. Walking through the old palace grounds before arriving at the museum is one of the pleasures of visiting. If you’re lucky, you may also see the changing of the royal guard ceremony at the main gate of Deoksugung.’

MMCA Deoksugung is located at 99 Sejong-daero, Jung District, Seoul, South Korea

MMCA

‘At MMCA, fellow Lehmann Maupin artist Do Ho Suh is presenting his first full survey exhibition, including early pieces and new, never-before-seen works. The must-see show is on view until 9 February 2027.’

MMCA is located at 30 Samcheong-ro, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea

Where to shop

Dongmyo Flea Market

‘Dongmyo is a good place to explore if you enjoy vintage clothing, secondhand books, old records, and other unexpected finds. Browsing is half the fun, and you may discover something special at a surprising price.’

Dongmyo Flea Market is located at 102-8 Sungin-dong, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea

Insa-dong Culture Street

‘Insa-dong is one of the best places to experience Korea’s traditional culture. If you’re interested in Korean painting, you’ll find shops selling hanji paper, brushes, ink, and other traditional materials.’

Insa-dong Culture Street, Jongno District, Seoul, South Korea

Where to detour

Jeju Island

‘If you’d like to experience another side of Korea after exploring Seoul, I hope you’ll visit Jeju Island. Many of the paintings I made last year were inspired by Jeju’s quiet atmosphere and landscapes. It’s a place I always find myself wanting to return to.’

For a place to stay, Wallpaper* suggests these elevated Jeju Island cabins by architect Byoung Cho.