Amansara: a revived royal guesthouse in Siem Reap

The former Villa Princière, a royal guesthouse commissioned by Cambodia’s King Norodom Sihanouk, lives largely behind a long white wall in Siem Reap. To most, Amansara flies subtly under the radar, unnoticed by almost anyone unaware of what lies beyond its discreet gate – and all the better for it. Siem Reap may beep and honk like most Southeast Asian cities, but this corner of Cambodia moves in a softer lane, in line with its ancient sites and therefore slower, more spiritual pace. The temples are a big reason guests come here; the other is the chance to retreat afterwards to the gentle hug of Aman’s beyond-exceptional service and fragrant cold towels. Fresh from a thoughtful renovation, the 24-suite hotel feels like stepping right back into the 1960s, where, if you squint hard enough, Jackie O might just be sunbathing beside the cool curving pool.

What’s on your doorstep?

Amansara sits on the main road towards Angkor, a remarkable fact that a site as striking and transcendent as the UNESCO-listed temples is just ten minutes from the hotel, and perhaps part of the reason Amansara feels so relaxed is its proximity to all that ancient history. Villa Princière was built with privacy in mind, set along the French Quarter, among the royal parks and leafy streets around Charles de Gaulle Boulevard and the Siem Reap River. The obvious excitement is its nearness to Angkor Wat, but tying in a few other surrounding temples into a ‘petit circuit’ makes the most of an early rise: Bayon, with its big-block carvings of smiling faces, and Ta Prohm, where a web of enormous tree roots winds through mossy ruins.

Downtown Siem Reap is walkable or a speedy remorque ride away, with the bright lights of its night market stirring up street food and cold bottles of beer, while the Made in Cambodia Market and Kandal Village are good for daytime pottering – the latter has a run of smarter shops selling lacquered homeware, silk scarves, and silverware. While Aman’s knack for detail and serious service make it all too easy to stay put, its experiences take on something totally different. The Amanbala boats, for instance, head out to the floating village of Chong Kneas on Tonlé Sap, garnering an up-close look at life on the country’s largest freshwater lake.

Who's behind the design?

It’s worth remembering the many iterations of a residence like this, too. French architect Laurent Mondet was commissioned to design Villa Princière in 1962, one of two state guesthouses built for Prince Sihanouk. The single-storey white cement buildings feature stone accents, while two uniquely shaped pools sit at the centre of the grounds and a grand circular dining room occupies one corner of the property. It was a subtle, modern design for its time, with long columned corridors and areas that made the most of the Cambodian climate.

After changing hands and names over the years, the property eventually fell into disrepair before Aman took it on in 2002. Kerry Hill Architects handled the latest round of work and took care not to disrupt the long-standing formula. The building’s minimalist shapes and time-worn charm are a near-perfect example of 1960s New Khmer architecture, a shift in Cambodian design that moved away from French colonial nostalgia in favour of expressive curvilinear forms, layered concrete, and plenty of open-air spaces.

The bones have been left largely unchanged, with a few modern amendments: armchairs have given way to sweeping banquettes in the restaurant, and the palette remains an earthy mix of dusty browns, stark whites, and bold blacks.

The room to book

All 24 suites follow a familiar monochrome scheme, with a hint of orange here and there, nodding to the saffron-coloured kasaya robes worn by Buddhist monks.

The latest update has been artful: all suites have been spruced up, and five additional guest suites have been upgraded to include private swimming pools, expanding Amansara’s collection of Pool Suites. Two new categories have also been added: a Junior Pool Suite and a Two-Bedroom Family Pool Suite for young families who’d prefer to stick together. The look is pared back and modernly spiffed, with enough warmth (and natural light) to keep it from feeling too two-toned.

Staying for drinks and dinner?

The food is reliable, flavourful and intentionally familiar, mixing international dishes with local staples that are intriguing to try. Breakfast comes on an A3 printout of traditional Khmer dishes alongside the usual spreads, including avocado toast, colourful fruits, chia pudding and eggs any style. Try something traditional: Bor Bor Bangkear is a rice-style porridge with bean sprouts, spring onion, and stir-fried prawns. When the humidity drops, take over an outdoor table by the pool for a pre- or post-dinner drink – Cambodian gin comes with a tumbler of tonic for topping up.

There's also a new bar, located in the room that originally served as a personal dining space for King Sihanouk and the royal family between 1962 and 1965, where you can have afternoon tea alongside retro photographs. At supper, the menu moves through Khmer salads – pomelo with prawns, or chicken with banana blossom – as well as Cambodian beef lok lak, served with a fried egg, pepper sauce and steamed rice or Western plates of carbonara, pizza and even fish fingers for the kids.

Where to switch off

As part of the hotel’s overall pace, it places as much emphasis on the peace and quiet of the suites and outdoor spaces as it does on encouraging long-lasting spa sessions. With four treatment rooms and a dedicated yoga studio, the Aman spa taps into therapies that weave together Khmer healing traditions and Aman’s own organic blends.

The latest refresh also introduces hydrotherapy facilities for the first time, with hot and cold plunge pools and a sauna, alongside bespoke wellness journeys centred on restoration and recovery. The gym is on the smaller side but stuffed with Technogym equipment, and personal trainers are on call with 24 hours’ notice.

The verdict

Siem Reap might fall under the mystic shroud of its temples, for obviously spectacular reasons, but it’s still a major city with a character all of its own. Beautifully preserved, Amansara’s low-slung heritage and old-schoolness are celebrated in every way. It’s an exclusive hideout for laying low and settling into a few days of taking it easy in between temple visits and market hopping – before returning to the quiet cocoon of a hotel of this calibre.