L’Auberge de l’Ill, Illhaeusern, France

In celebration of 50 consecutive years with a three-Michelin star rating, France’s L’Auberge de l’Ill restaurant has been given a spruce-up, courtesy of long-time collaborators, Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku, who have unified the four connecting dining rooms with their signature sensitivity to place.

Taking their cues from the venue’s riverside location, obvious references include a marquetry wall-panel depicting herons, storks and dragonflies by artist Philippe David and a plush handmade tufted wool carpet, from French company Manufacture de Tapis de Bourgogne, that with a flowing motif in varying hues of blue, evokes undulating ripples. This is reflected, in a less obvious way, by three polished and hammered stainless steel ‘ponds’, while some of the circular tables, which line the edges of the rooms, are enclosed by bronze ‘reeds’ which create a sense of intimacy.

Elsewhere, the recesses’ oxidised copper walls are brought to life with Colombian artist Diana Beltran Herrera's origami birds and Maison Lesage's embroidered butterfly appliqués.

Regulars – who have always had their favourite dining area – will now be hard pressed to choose.