Twelve years after opening in Copenhagen’s heaving Værnedamsvej strip and charming locals with its uncomplicated, rustic French bistro fare, it was time Les Trois Cochons had a spot of a nip and tuck.

The updates by Danish studio Københavns Møbelsnedkeri are a quiet homage to the restaurant’s previous incarnation as a butcher shop, with exposed slabs of concrete wall setting off old turquoise-green tiles, chequerboard floor tiles, dark oak and antique brass lamps, updated Thonet chairs, and warm brown leather banquettes.

It’s little surprise that the restaurant’s devoted clientele have flocked back with enthusiasm, especially since head chef Nikolaj Jelsbech sends out into the light-filled dining room classic plates such as pan-fried turbot glazed with a sauce of beurre blanc, seafood platters piled high with sea urchins, razor clams and langoustine, and a grilled tarte flambée. In the basement, meanwhile, is a cosy private room for post-prandial cocktails.