Italian job: Picky Nicky chews the fat with like-minded epicures

I have been working with Italians for nearly three decades and it’s been the catalyst for fine-tuning my quality maniac tendencies. Back in 1988, I met fashion designer Alberto Aspesi at his factory north of Milan. He insisted I try some mozzarella di bufala because it was a Tuesday. This was the day he had the fresh buffalo milk cheese flown up by plane from Naples, and he said there was no point in eating it on any other day of the week. It should also never be refrigerated, so best not to bother with restaurants who must follow tedious health and safety rules.
Some time later I was chatting with Pier Luigi Loro Piana about the joys of vicuña and discovered a fellow quality maniac (I have him to thank for my strapline above). This is, after all, the man who, along with his late brother Sergio, brought the world 100 per cent cashmere carpeting.
I avoid industrially produced tomatoes when making sauces. Instead I use Paolo Petrilli's, grown on his Puglian farm, then hand-picked and bottled
In January this year I had lunch with Romeo Sozzi, the founder of furniture company Promemoria and the new owner of Bottega Ghianda. I was researching a story on the Italian woodwork experts and flew in to take a tour of the Ghianda workshops, but first Sozzi invited me to lunch in his special kitchen above the factory. While we decided what to eat, he insisted I try a pinot noir he had discovered while on holiday in the Alto Adige region, where it was served in finestemmed, big-bowled glasses from Zalto’s Denk’Art collection, so he had to buy them, too. So far so good. I am in the Murray Moss camp. I prefer my wine in a generously-sized glass designed by Josef Hoffmann for Lobmeyr (preferably from the ‘Patrician’ set). Moss once said of Lobmeyr: ‘When you go from a normal glass to this, it modifies your behaviour. You become more graceful.’
Sozzi, however, did not stop at stemware, which seduced him, he told me, the minute ‘the wine danced in the glass as I turned the stem in my hand’. Due to the large bowl and smaller rim, it needed to be washed in a special dishwasher (one of the UC series by Winterhalter, which has a flexible, pressureadjusting system for fine glass), so he bought that too, along with a treatment machine to ensure the water was clear enough. At this point I realised I was not being picky enough and still had a lot to learn.
A fine case of less but better. Bocconcini are hand-cut squares of chocolate-covered ice cream, invented by gelateria Dai Dai on the Tuscan coast
After lunch I was offered panettone,which Sozzi gives to clients at Christmas. My husband Álvaro and I also order it as gifts, from Pasticceria Stefania in Florence, and we rewrap it too, as does Sozzi, but I learnt he starts working on his panettone in July, when bakers are invited in with their trials for him to taste. Supposedly, raisin length is key – the longer the better for a good chew. I have so much to learn.
How to be picky like an Italian
Cheese: Good Parmesan comes from the milk of Vacche Rosse (red cows). They produce a third less milk than the more commonly used Holstein breed, which were introduced to industrialise the cheese production process
Olive oil: Almost everyone I know presses their own olive oil, which is tinned or bottled and frequently shared, as production often exceeds family use. The late Sergio Loro Piana used to serve up to five different varieties with one meal to ensure perfect pairing
Flowers: A bottle of wine is not the customary gift when invited to dinner in Italy. Flowers should be sent earlier in the day so your host or hostess has time to put them in a vase
House shoes: If you visit Giorgio Armani at his mountain home in St Moritz, a pair of velvet slippers in your size will be ready at the front door when you arrive. Your boots will be returned to you (cleaned) on departure
As originally featured in the May 2017 issue of Wallpaper* (W*218)
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Also known as Picky Nicky, Nick Vinson has contributed to Wallpaper* Magazine for the past 21 years. He runs Vinson&Co, a London-based bureau specialising in creative direction and interiors for the luxury goods industry. As both an expert and fan of Made in Italy, he divides his time between London and Florence and has decades of experience in the industry as a critic, curator and editor.
-
Le Café Louis Vuitton in New York offers haute cuisine and fantasy in every bite
Pack your bags – or rather, your Courrier Lozine 110 trunk – and make a reservation at Louis Vuitton’s New York flagship
-
The future of Copenhagen Fashion Week? Look towards the students of SAFD
Taught by designer Anne Sofie Madsen, the tightly knit students of the Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design (SAFD) are adding a new jolt of energy to the city’s manicured fashion scene. Dal Chodha heads to Copenhagen to meet its rising stars
-
Meet Goodesign, the modular furniture studio with big dreams
Wallpaper* speaks to Emmanuel Popoteur, the self-taught designer behind New York’s Goodesign, a studio creating intuitive, adaptable furniture for modern living
-
From The Fat Badger to The Bull, how Public House is redefining the British pub
Inside the design-driven food group putting provenance, craft and community back at the heart of pub culture
-
Guests dined on Bangladeshi-inspired cuisine at the Serpentine Summer Party 2025
The party marked the 25th anniversary of the Serpentine Architecture Pavilion – and celebrated this year’s design by Bangladeshi architect Marina Tabassum and her Dhaka-based firm
-
Rémy Martin and Anish Kapoor: art meets cognac in London
The cognac house and the artist unveiled a limited-edition XO decanter and a new sculpture in London at a recent event at the Institute of Contemporary Arts
-
Mark your calendars for Mount Street Neighbourhood Summer Festival, a feast for the senses
The event, 12-14 June 2025, showcases the mix of food, art and community in the heart of London’s Mayfair. Here's what to expect, from afternoon tea to aperitivo, film screenings to biodynamic flowers
-
Healthy chocolate? Eat it at Makers, London’s new Lebanese chocolatier
Located in Chelsea, Makers is a new ‘healthy chocolate’ shop offering treats free of refined sugar, seed oils, wheat and dairy – and it tastes delicious
-
Inside Domaine Evremond, the UK’s first subterranean winery
‘Sparkling wine should be fun.’ We tour Domaine Evremond in Kent, a winery steeped in the English countryside
-
Sketch transforms into an English garden in celebration of Jane Austen’s 250th birthday
The 11th edition of ‘Sketch in Bloom’ nods to the most notable works of Jane Austen with budding floral installations and a quintessentially English afternoon tea
-
At the Regent Street Sensorium, architectural jelly sculptures are designed to ignite the senses
Delve into the history of London’s Regent Street through a jellyscape, a fragrance cloud and more – plus, for the event’s final week, two new immersive workshops (ends 27 April)