Chaos theory: Hermès plays havoc with notions of time at the SIHH watch fair
As Hermès makes its debut at the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, it resets the horological universe with an interactive installation, courtesy of Dutch artist Levi van Veluw
The making of ‘The Alchemist’
‘Watchmaking gives the image of an industry that seeks perfection, where everything is always clean‐cut. The inside of my atrium installation is not a watchmaker’s atelier. It is instead chaos. And chaos is what I wanted to express inside the installation chamber. Like the mind of the watchmaker, full of ideas. He puts everything together to give rise to a watch.’ – Levi van Veluw
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
The making of ’The Alchemist’
Van Veluw interpreted time via his ‘building machine’ installation, enticing visitors to engage in an interactive experience on the theme of ‘time, a Hermès object’.
‘The opening of the atrium installation is a strong contrast, from bright yellow to deep blue, between the inside and the outside. Actually, it highlights the paradox of something complex that looks easy, like Hermès time,’ says van Veluw.
‘We want to awaken a playful relationship with time through an object that is true to its function,’ explains Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès artistic director. ‘We create timepieces stemming from the mastery of numerous skills and a serene vision of time.’
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
The vision
W*: How was the SIHH Hermès project different from your previous project collaborations for Hermès?
LVV: It is the first project I’ve done with Hermès that is not a window display and therefore not behind glass. So people don’t only see it from the front, they can walk around it – that provides much better opportunity for interaction.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
The artist
Levi van Veluw was born in Hoevelaken, The Netherlands, in 1985 and studied at the ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem. Since graduating in 2007, he has produced multi-disciplinary works, including installations, photographs, videos, sculptures and drawings. His work has been exhibited across Europe and the US. Having collaborated on window display projects for French maison Hermès, the ‘Alchemist’ project at SIHH is his first experiential commission for the house.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Object editions
‘Over and above technical performances which seek to measure, order and control time, Hermès dares to explore another time. We want to awaken a playful relationship with time through an object that is true to its function,’ explains Dumas. ‘Hermès watches are objects that arouse wonderment.’
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Pavilion design
RDAI architects created a vast atrium, constructed of maplewood screens, while steles studding the slatted inside walls serve as showcases. Each watch is revealed in a glass cube. RDAI also imagined private spaces, spread out like a second skin, while seating tiers in a presentation theatre are covered in Hermès fabric. Day beds and armchairs in neutral tones are also introduced.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
The concept
Hermès invited van Veluw to interpret its vision of time as a wondrous element. His response is ‘The Alchemist’: a fragmented asymmetrical monolith that sits at the centre of the French masion’s exhibition booth.
‘It looks like a solid construction, yet behind its bright walls, the inventor, the artist, the maker builds a new universe. Within this deep blue space, he invents, collects, organises, arranges, makes, forges and polishes. This is the origin of watchmaking and ‘The Alchemist’ is the source. Outside of this core exists an alternative reality originating solely from this “laboratory”. This installation expresses the singular Hermès approach to time through an immersive experience, playing with it rather than seeking to control it,’ says van Veluw
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Silk route
At the heart of the pavilion, van Veluw’s installation offers visitors a chance to share an emotion akin to a ritual. Inside the low-tech square display windows evoking the shape of the famous Hermès silk scarves, he developed nine interactive animations.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Pavilion design
Hermès is presenting a new vision of time in joining the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, in 2018. All SIHH booths are identical from the outside, so brands must emphasise their identities and key product messages within the interiors. RDAI architects created the vast atrium, constructed of maplewood screens, while steles studding the slatted inside walls serve as showcases.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Art for art’s sake
‘We could say that the outside of the atrium installation represents the apparent simplicity and strong aesthetics of a Hermès watch, while the interior reveals all the complexity of its mechanics. But I do not create complexity for the sake of complexity,’ says van Veluw. ‘Defying technical challenges is essential, but it is not my goal. Through my art, I want people to enjoy an experience. To heighten this experience, I hide all the technical, non‐graceful parts. Actually, making things look simple is the hardest thing to do.’
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Hermès time
‘I believe that technical elements are not intended to serve the purpose of making something complex. On the contrary. Take, for example, the Hermès Arceau Le temps Suspendu watch where you simply press a pusher to suspend time. How simple and powerful it is, yet how complex the interior mechanics must be!’ says van Veluw.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Piston power
‘The contrast, from bright yellow to deep blue, from outside to inside, highlights the paradox of something complex that looks easy, like Hermès time. Watchmaking gives the image of an industry that seeks perfection. But I believe that no great idea, no strong innovation arises from perfection. I instead think that chaos is key. And chaos is what I wanted to express inside. Like the mind of the watchmaker, full of ideas. He puts everything together to give rise to a watch. On the other hand, the outside gives the impression of simplicity but in a fragmented way,’ says van Veluw.
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen
Piston power
‘Hermès has a unique approach to time, playing with it rather than seeking to control it. Expressing that through an immersive experience was key for me. I did not want to design an object that would merely impress people, because I believe that in trying to impress people, you actually drive them away. Instead, I wanted to draw people in, for the installation to be somewhat hypnotic. I want people to feel immersed within my art, and in some way as if they were somewhere else other than in the SIHH. As if they had travelled; a feeling akin to a pleasant jet lag sensation,’ says van Veluw
See ‘The Alchemist’ for one day only, at SIHH, Geneva, 19 January, 11am–6pm. Photography: Hervé Annen