Style findings: November dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team
London boutique Browns continues its nomadic retail tour in Berlin
Browns takes Berlin
A hyper-connected, uber-informed generation like today’s needs more than just a good digital feed to double tap and a selection great kicks to cop. The value is in the meeting of URL and IRL. Cut to pioneering retailer Browns who launched their semi-permanent, roaming retail concept Nomad with an outpost in Shoreditch, East London in 2017. Last year they opened their first ever store outside of the UK inside Los Angeles’s iconic Fred Segal boutique. This weekend they have taken over an abandoned supermarket in Berlin’s Mitte neighbourhood with a focus on punkish, new-wave sustainability.
‘With Nomad we stay true to the environment in which it exists by fusing local and international partners and brands together to create a multi-sensory experience,’ Holli Rogers, CEO of Browns says. Together with Berlin based communications agency Reference Studios, they have created Browns Berlin – a three-day experiential space that will host DJ sets, art performances, site specific sculpture and a range of panel discussions and activities. The Amsterdam-based fashion collagist Duran Lantink – who has become known for his hybridised take on eco fashion – has set up a post-apocalyptic atelier. He will host one-to-one consultations, providing visitors with an opportunity to revitalise and rework pieces from their own wardrobes until Sunday. Louis Loveless will be tattooing in a red-light soaked back room and Morgan Hasenfuß (aka Truth and/or Consequences) will be reading ready palms.
Browns is due to celebrate its 50th birthday next year, but the key to its success is in looking ahead. ‘It has always been a place of discovery where luxury and next generation talent sit side by side – it’s a place where music and art have always been platformed too,’ Tyler Psarras, brand engagement director says. ‘We’re on the precipice of a new dawn. We want to bring all of those experiences into one space because we want to celebrate creativity! Nomad isn’t just a physical activation of clothes in a different environment. The product is the souvenir of the experience.’
Photography: Samuel Smelty. Writer: Dal Chodha
Last Christmas, we made a festive pitstop at London’s Harrods, where Dolce & Gabbana had dreamt up a goodie-filled winter wonderland. But this year, the label have looked a little closer to Mayfair, filling the ground floor of its Central London flagship on New Bond Street, with an array of festive stocking fillers that nod to its Sicilian heritage. Fancy a Kitchen Aid emblazoned with exuberant Italian prints, a Smeg fridge adorned with murals of Sicilian lemons, or simply something to line the stomach when sipping a Christmas Limoncello? For this, sweet treats and mouthwatering pasta from the Milanese bakers Fiasconaro and heritage pasta makers Pastificio di Martino are the answer. Even those who dread the holiday season won’t be able to pass up these treats, which lucky for shoppers, are available to purchase until January 2020.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Jonathan Anderson has long had an affinity with the Arts and Crafts Movement. In recent seasons, the creative director’s Loewe capsule collections have celebrated the work of British pioneers of the decorative trend, which flourished from 1880, including Charles Rennie Mackintosh and William Morris. London-born ceramicist William De Morgan was a lifelong friend of Morris, and when creating pottery and tiles, experimented with medieval motifs, innovative glazing techniques, and dreamt up imaginary bird and animal prints. Now, De Morgan’s work forms the inspiration behind Loewe’s latest capsule collection, which is brimming with floral arabesques and fantastical creatures, from dodo intarsia knitwear to knitted beanies with horns. We’re going particularly wild for this woolen dragon’s tail and matching gloves, plus this balaclava which resembles a noble knight’s helmet. Fantastic, fantastical forms indeed.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Lay of the land(scape)
Isabella Cawdor and Stella Tennant, the creative duo behind Holland & Holland are well trodden when it comes to terrain of the British landscape. Each of the label’s outdoors-focused collections begins with the assessment of the natural environment. Now, in a picturesque partnership, the duo have teamed up with Sotheby’s to launch an exhibition showcasing artworks by Modern British artists, including Barbara Hepworth, William Scott and Edward Wadsworth, which focus on the interplay between landscape and abstraction.
‘For me there is a great affinity between Isabella and Stella’s aesthetic and that of a number of British artists from the 20th century, from the colours they use - those deep greens, slate greens and russet reds that are instantly evocative of this wind-swept rain-soaked land- through to their interest in texture and irregular pattern and they distinct quality of materials,’ says Simon Hucker, Sotheby’s Modern British Art specialist. The pieces are on view at Holland & Holland’s Bruton Street store in Mayfair until Wednesday, and should you fancy investing in an artwork yourself, the Sotheby’s sale takes place 19-20 November.
Pictured, Abstractions/Kissable, Edward Wadsworth (1947). Writer: Laura Hawkins
In recent seasons, Nineties minimalism has been a knockout aesthetic on the catwalks. Just look to the cult Instagram account @90s anxiety, which is dedicated to the fashion of the era, or the pared-back, seductive silhouettes of emerging designers across the globe. Giorgio Armani launched the label’s first handbag in 1995, and the angular essence-focused design was a elegant emblem of the decade. Now, the label has relaunched its signature La Prima shape, updated in a range of styles from a shell clutch to enlarged, rectangular version. Materials abound too, with the style available in silk, lacquer and even lizard. Now, instead of scrolling Instagram for Nineties nostgalia, we suggest you invest in the La Prima, and personify it yourself instead.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
There’s something surgical about Enfants Riches Déprimés’ flagship boutique in Paris. The rebellious label’s latest outpost on Rue Charlot riffs on operating room-meets-boudoir aesthetic. Masterminded by French architect Didier Faustino – whose recent project’s included pink marble and green furnishing-focused bar in Ghent, Belgium – the two storey space is swathed in stainless steel, dark marble and icky green furnishings. We suggest you take in all the antiseptic details on a Pierre Paulin sofa, where you’ll be able to survey the store’s leather jackets and bovver boots, which appear suspended on its slick surfaces. We think it’s just what the doctor ordered.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
As hybrids go, it’s difficult to top Sartoria Genttio’s handsome debut flagship store in Beijing. Designed by Tokyo-based studio I-IN, the bijou atelier smoothly channels the brand’s unusual MO of Italian silhouettes as interpreted by its Japanese creative director, Hashikawa Tatsuyoshi. Fashion accessories and bolts of cloth are displayed in pleasing regimented stacks, whilst suits are shown off in vitrines cut in walnut and beige marble. A warm sea blue, evoking the Sea of Naples, runs through the rooms, though we’re particularly taken by the dressing rooms, their cloistered volumes cut in stone to create a sense of being in a soigné cave once the doors are closed.
Photography: Tomooki Kengaku. Writer: Daven Wu
If you’re someone who strives to saunter straight from a dip in the ocean into a downward dog, from the floor stretch of a Pilates class into a the nook of a poolside sun lounger, then Prism has the pieces for your versatile vacation. This year, the London based swim label celebrates its 10th anniversary (a celebration that has also seen the launch of sustainable sunglasses), and founder Anna Laub has released a capsule collection of pared-back separates from crop tops to leggings, briefs to bandeau leotards, which triple up as both swimwear, sportswear and workoutwear. These sleek, multifunctional pieces are sustainable not only in their all-activities élan, but also in their manufacturing. They are created using a seamless 3D knitting process which results in minimal offcut waste, and the collection’s forest green, candyfloss pink and chocolate brown hues are created using an eco-dye technique. Each piece – launching exclusively with Matchesfashion.com – is chlorine-resistant, quick dry, breathable and sweat-wicking, which meaning you’ll be able to run, sun and swim to not just your heart’s, but your body’s content too.
Writer: Laura Hawkins
Stand to attention
From Bottega Veneta to Isabel Marant there was a militaristic mindset on the A/W 2019 catwalks, and we’re particularly on the prowl for Aspesi’s ‘Replica 50’ jacket, a tiger stripe-inspired style which draws on the Italian label’s signature field silhouette, and also celebrates its five decade anniversary. We suggest you make a roar in this camouflage version, which is swathed in khaki, black and orange stripes. It’s sure to win any style drill whether you’re sauntering in the city or on expedition in the great outdoors.
Photography: Merjin Hos. Writer: Laura Hawkins