Dover Street Market’s latest Tachiagari for S/S 2013
Twice a year in January and July, Dover Street Market ushers in the new season with its Tachiagari - which means 'beginning' in Japanese - closing down the shop completely for three days to rejuvenate their interiors with new collections and special curated spaces. We popped down to check out the results of the S/S 2013 revamp and to catch up with DSM's crop of new and existing designers whose wares will be sold in store, including the likes of Charlie Casely-Hayford. 'It's English sensibility, with Japanese fabric,' said Charlie, as he showed us a jacket with a spotted print meant to imitate shark skin. The young designer, who collaborates with his father Joe for their self-titled label, has a special connection to DSM - it has been home to their brand for four years, ever since a keen-eyed Adrian Joffe quickly snapped up their first-ever collection. Pictured, is the shop's window installation by young designer Simone Rocha.
Rocha pulled off a particularly impressive triple coup - simultaneously opening her first retail space, designing the window space and contributing a capsule line of 10 customised Fred Perry Shirts to the 60th anniversary exhibition. 'This is an exact recreation of the lane behind my house where I grew up in Dublin,' explained Rocha of the mountainous installation
The artwork consists of endless panels of real plants painstakingly dried out then weaved onto wire mesh by hand in Rocha's studio, which were then transported and installed at the shop's entrance. Watch the clip to see the installation process unfold
The ground floor welcomes a new installation by taxidermist and interior designer Emma Hawkins. Set designer Andy Hillman was responsible for the design of the Fred Perry 60th Anniversary Customisation Project exhibition space, which features a green, oversized speaker (right) that starts on the ground floor ...
... and extends downstairs to the basement, leading to the exhibition space. Sixty of the label's most loyal followers were invited to reimagine its original 1952 polo shirt, with the first 25 customisations now on display with the rest to be unveiled later in the year at DSM's Tokyo outpost and IT Beijing
Graham Hudson has created an installation in the basement called Open System. The artist self-referenced a previous show at the Tate, which examined conceptualism and minimalism in the age of mass reproduction
Open System incorporates the Sneaker Space (pictured) and Idea Books, refreshing their spaces with new display shelves cleverly converted from ladders
Creative director Rei Kawakubo remodelled the Third Floor completely to include new spaces for Simone Rocha, Lanvin, and Alexander McQueen. The floor also offers up Saint Laurent's brand new retail design concept
'I work a lot with perspex, so I wanted to keep true to my style and reflect that here,' said Rocha of the minimalist retail space she designed herself. The young designer seemed entirely unfazed by the mammoth undertaking just three weeks before her next show at London Fashion Week. 'I like being busy,' laughed Rocha as she walked us through her projects for DSM
Also sited on the Third Floor is a second installation by Andy Hillman - an oversized gorilla humorously titled 'Primate Pile Up'
The refurbished Third Floor features futuristic, geometric capsules and metallic racks, interspered with mirrored plinths
In addition to the refreshmemt of existing collections, Tachiagari is an opportunity for the shop to introduce new designers. Making their inaugural appearance this season are Daniel Andresen, Jonathan Saunders, Lee Roach, Lou Dalton, Lucas Nascimento, Marvielab, Palmer Harding, Sophie D'Hoore, Thomas Tait, Yang Li, Dion Lee and new CDG brand Noir Kei Ninomiya as well as jewellery by Yunus & Eliza and Zeynep Erol
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