Cross-check: plaid, balances and bold moves
With a nod to Savile Row sartorialism, tartan, houndstooth and Glen plaid stitched up winter’s tailoring tale.
Demna Gvasalia crossed the line at Balenciaga with a directional spin on Prince of Wales check, padding jackets at the hip and finishing trousers with stirrups. Alessandra Facchinetti followed suit in Milan with an oversized trench featuring grid work that combined traditional tartan with Glenurquhart check, while a primal undercurrent unfurled Jonathan Anderson’s utility message at Loewe, unearthing plenty of raw-edged herringbone tweed.
And while Alessandro Michele may be the master of maximalism, winter’s Prince of Wales topcoat was a prime example of stealth restraint, before plaid shrugged off its outerwear associations and snuck into the boudoir at Calvin Klein Collection where Francisco Costa cut printed slip dresses in sheer silk. Victoria Beckham similarly sidestepped houndstooth’s heritage hallmarks with cut-out tops tucked into matching, man-style trousers.
This working girl’s bold tailoring edit clearly means business.
As originally featured in the September 2016 issue of Wallpaper* (W*210)
Photography: Jan Lehner. Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure