Pitti Uomo 96 re-evaluates sartorial sensibilities in Florence
For more than 20 years, curator Olivier Saillard has applied an incisive, dynamic attitude to the way fashion can be reassessed and renewed in fresh surroundings. He has curated hundreds of shows and artistic performances centred around women’s fashion but only ever three devoted to menswear. He opened the latest edition of Pitti Uomo with a perceptive survey of the last three decades of the tradeshow and its role in shaping how men dress. A scorching Florence made a fine setting for re-evaluating sartorial sensibilities; Clare Waight Keller set her synthy S/S20 collection for Givenchy in the sumptuous surroundings of the Villa Palmieri (reputedly a favourite haunt for Queen Victoria). Paul Andrew’s sportif debut men’s collection for Salvatore Ferragamo was staged under the watchful eye of Florence’s famed Fountain of Neptune. Clothes are best read in context and in contrast.