Scene setting: Italianate heritage has long been a hallmark of the label, which draws on its home country’s history — from Catholic motifs to Sicilian culture, La Famiglia to the baroque — in its designs. Dolce & Gabbana has an esteemed artisanal heritage of its own (with its own high jewellery and haute couture workshops) and for A/W 2020, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana drew on sartorial craft, positioning la magliaia (knitters) and il calzolaio (shoemakers) at the entrance to its showspace. Inside, video screens played films of artisans, from weavers to tiemakers, at work. Amidst the panic of Coronavirus outside the catwalk’s doors (which saw Giorgio Armani’s show cancelled that morning), the set up provided uplifting antidote for attendees, and a reminder of the importance of craft, hand work and slow paced artisanal heritage in today’s increasingly alarmist world.
Mood board: The collection was composed also entirely of blacks, greys and whites, plus a smattering of red rose prints, and was predominantly pared-back and knitwear focused. High waisted knitted underwear was paired seductively with long sweeping cardigans and knee high socks, chunky knit sweaters were layered over laddered pencil skirts, thick rib dresses outlined the body (a silhouette which was a strong point on Milan catwalks from Agnona to Bottega Veneta). Lingerie shapes, corset details, transparent tulle still gave the Dolce & Gabbana tools for seduction, but this was a softer form of sensuality for autumn.
Best in show: Wool is often overlooked for its warming, odour resistant, flame retardant qualities in favour of synthetic fabric. Now more than ever, it’s important we invest in sustainable, natural fibers, and Gabbana’s offering, which included swaddling scarves, chunky Aran jumpers and Fifties underwear, ensures there is plenty to purchase come autumn. §
