Scene setting: The atmosphere at the German label’s A/W 2020 show was at more of a fever pitch than usual. A couple of hours before its start, Giorgio Armani had cancelled public attendance of its show, due to the Coronavirus outbreak in Italy and at its end, Prada was holding an intimate press conference to announce Raf Simons as the brand’s co-creative director. Luckily, the lilac tone of Boss’ show set up soothed guests souls, as they entered its monochromatic, also sipping a purple drink in a tiny milk bottle. As the show began, musicians walked onto an ovular stage in the runway’s center, performing a piece called Down to Earth, composed by Henri Scars Struck.
Mood board: Designer Ingo Wilts served up a contemporary men’s and women’s wardrobe in tones of tan, red, lilac and grey, which incorporated double-breasted suiting, sportswear, smart work wear and evening options. Fabrics included fluid leathers and jersey, tones were colour block into unusual pairings and prints were imagined in fierce zebra stripes.
Finishing touches: Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Jil Sander, Prada: brands have fallen hard for fringed details. Wilts too got in on the tasseled action for autumn, with fringing festooned on handbags, overcoats, scarves and dresses. It’s not just tassels, but tactility that is a trend. §
