Kenzo debuts its A/W 2013 menswear collection at Pitti Uomo

Kenzo debuts its A/W 2013 menswear collection at Pitti Uomo

Kenzo’s creative directors, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, shook the salamis right off the shelves of the Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo at their fashion show last night in Florence.

Though it was staged on the top floor of the soaring glass and steel edifice where many of the city’s best food merchants are housed (see below for Mercato highlights), there was absolutely nothing fruity about this collection.

In fact, the New York- and Paris-based designers seemed to have their heads even higher in the sky than the picturesque domed ceilings, playing with a very enticing cloud-packed camouflage print on head to looks or oversized sleeping bag outerwear.

The designers cited an ’exploration of the skies inflected by ancient mythologies of the mystical world above’ as the celestial inspiration. If that sounds corny, or unconvincing, it wasn’t.

The clothes, as always, were a perfect mix of street and polish, sleek and casual, where moleskin or felted jacquard sweatshirts took on the structure of armour, and nylon skinny trousers came tiled like a kitchen floor.

Best of all were all the extras, from the leather parachute ankles of thick rubber soled booties to the moon-bouncing back packs and fanny packs - big enough to carry a man’s home office - which were made in collaboration with Boblbee.

Need help navigating the colossal Mercato Centrale? Here is a quick guide to Carol & Humberto’s favourite spots:

Giunti Emilio
Humberto Leon: I love tripe and this is the best looking I’ve ever seen

Carol Lim: They have the best mushrooms in Florence and these spreads that are incredible with bread

Bar bellini dal 1898
C&H: We love this classic Florentine bar for their coffee and snacks

Properties Dalla
C: Best spices in Florence

Manetti Luciano
H: Florence is known for its steaks and the meat looks incredible here

C&H: Best salami in the world

La Bottega Colosa
C: I love the Italian salts here

C&H: The best balsamic vinegar!

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