JW Anderson’s debut womenswear collection for Loewe is a marvellous example of what can happen when pure creativity combines with heritage and craftsmanship. Anderson’s open-air, morning presentation in front of UNESCO’s Paris headquarters offered the first clue to his new vision for Loewe - choosing to emphasise the maison’s link to Spanish beachside culture rather than evening glam, red carpet dressing. The venue’s sandstone paving also directly mirrored the textures of his first look, a dress draped from a patchwork of sand-coloured leather panels. Like his own London line, Anderson’s vision for Loewe built upon an unexpected rawness, expertly balanced by the brand's leather expertise, facilitating an organic ease in his liquid leather shapes in multiple patinas and colours. These peeling, cut-out effects continued in cotton and linen slashed skirts and dresses, which on closer inspection allowed you to see inside the garment’s intricate handiwork. The outdoor casualness of pleated linen felt especially modern, while the effortlessness of his leather pants, belted with Karate sashes and teamed with slashed retro knitwear, illustrated the Irishman’s keen commercial prowess. Loewe's handbags (this season's star is the ‘Puzzle’), shoes (mannish leather loafers) and gold sculptural jewellery were also included in his runway remit. Hailing from the capital of fast fashion, Anderson understands the consumer demand for newness, therefore a selection of pieces were available to buy right away. As a designer who’s expressed a hands-on interest in the business side of Loewe’s reinvention, you can be sure he will be standing by to see the initial sales figures, which will no doubt be impressive given his first effort.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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