There’s long been debate about whether fashion design constitutes art, but for S/S 2021, men's knitwear creations made a convincing creative argument. A host of brands used clothing as a canvas, interpreting the gestural strokes of figurative portraiture and the globulous bulges of ceramic forms within their folds.
At Dior, Kim Jones was compelled by the emotive and bold brushstrokes of Ghanaian portraitist Amoako Boafo, who had his first solo exhibition at Mariane Ibrahim Gallery in Chicago last autumn. In a tactile and tonal twist, a figure inspired by Boafo’s oil on canvas ‘Yellow Dress’ has been translated into an intarsia motif on a cashmere roll neck.
Sweatshirt, £1100, by Loewe
Jonathan Anderson showcased the figurative work of Catalan illustrator and designer Pol Anglada in his eponymous brand’s spring collection. A fiery chunky knit weave cardigan features a brow-furrowed face, inspired by illustrations in Anglada’s father’s comic book collection.
At Loewe, where Anderson is also creative director, the designer achieved state of the art style, nodding to the figurative works of Paul Cadmus, whose portraits paid homage to the male form. A jacquard wool jumper translates the egg tempera brushstrokes of Cadmus’ ‘The Inventor’ into fabric.
RELATED STORY
Colourful knitwear brands for amping up an autumn wardrobe (opens in new tab)
The oozy, molten forms of ceramicist Brian Rochefort inspired Berluti’s Kris Van Assche, who transformed the colourful glazes and lava-like textures of the LA-based sculptor’s pieces into prismatic jacquard jumpers. Their knitwear fabrications evoke the appearance of Rochefort’s works, which seem to overflow with dribbling glazes.
Jumper, £1220; trousers, £840, both by Berluti. 'S28' chair, £1000, by Pierre Chapo, from Béton Brut
Cardigan, £940, by JW Anderson
INFORMATION
A version of this article first appeared in the April 2021 issue of Wallpaper* (W*264) – available to download here
-
Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2023: what to expectLook forward to Women’s Fashion Week A/W 2023 with our guide to this season’s shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris
-
Meet Tyler Hobbs, the breakout star of generative art
Tyler Hobbs is making waves with abstract, algorithm-assisted art that harnesses code as a creative medium. We speak to the American artist ahead of two physical exhibitions in New York and London
-
Triennale pays tribute to Angelo Mangiarotti with extensive retrospective
‘Angelo Mangiarotti: When Structures Take Shape’ (until 23 April 2023) is an extensive retrospective of the Milanese architect's work, with contributions from Renzo Piano and UniFor
-
Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 show
As guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 show
Dior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Year in review: fashion features editor Laura Hawkins picks her top 10 posts of 2021
Wallpaper’s Laura Hawkins reveals her top 10 fashion posts from 2021, spanning designer interviews, scene-stealing show sets, and innovations towards sustainability
-
Virgil Abloh to Dior: fashion must-sees in Doha
The Qatari capital Doha plays host to a duo of blockbuster retrospective fashion exhibitions, ‘Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech’ and ‘Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams’
