Balenciaga S/S 2015

On a smoking geometric runway, Alexander Wang continued his sportswear revolution at Balenciaga, which also showed signs that the American had spent time rummaging through the maison's Paris archives over the summer. Balenciaga's argyle print was referenced firstly within the stage set and later in his various trellised, piped cord tops, 3D diamond fringe and the graphic weave of his 'fruit foam net' skirts. Wang also touched on the gathering detailing of Nicolas Ghesquière's spring 2009 'sci-fi couture' collection with his plissé body suits that were elegantly paired with his transparent, 'diamond leaf' textural skirts. Soothing the season's otherwise graphic black and white palette were subtle accents of mauve and peachy flesh, as Wang worked with ruched tulle and a high-end version of Airtex to create his aerodynamic, Tour de France cocktail confections. Criss-crossed satin necklines, halter-necks and tube silhouettes may have offered a 1990s kickback, but his precision-cut, trailing trenches with their Matrix-like strength and floor-grazing severity, are sure to be the season's fast editorial hit. Marching right behind his laced, flat sandals and reflecting Blade Runner sunglasses that is.
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