Brioni S/S 2016
Brioni's Brendan Mullane marries the sartorial with the utilitarian by way of graphic brush strokes
Scene setting: Though creative director Brendan Mullane name-checked architect Carlo Scarpa and referenced Venetian glass paintings as a source of inspiration, it was really the enormous horizontal box (the size of a giant truck) sitting in the center of the Brioni show space that most closely tied in with his spring collection. The same rectangles that were sliced out of the box's body to create negative space were recreated using brush strokes in the clothing. The wonderful graphic accents transformed silk suiting from the ordinary to the exceptional.
Best in show: Mullane proves that sophisticated sartorial clothing need not be snooze worthy. He treated us to formal wool jackets in grey green tones with brown suede pockets, fluttering silk shirts and high tech Japanese nylon anoraks that billowed like sails.
Finishing touches: No matter how formal things got – and formal they were; tuxedos, after all, remain Brioni’s bread and butter – everything looked cool thanks to the simple two strap sandals (without socks, finally!) that were worn with every look.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
JJ Martin
-
A Mexican artist’s studio makes the most of light and volume in San Miguel Chapultepec
A Mexican artist's studio and home, designed by JJRR in the heart of Mexico City, makes the most of volume and light for its owner, Stefan Bruggemann
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Sydney’s The Darling shows off its playful and sophisticated suites
The Darling in Sydney unveils its recently renovated suites by Fender Katsalidis, paying homage to the surrounding cityscape
By Tianna Williams Published
-
New Rivian R2 and R3 downsize a format to increase the EV company’s standings
The Californian manufacturer has revealed the new Rivian R2 and R3, all-electric SUVs that combine practicality with functional elegance
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
MSGM A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated