Emporio Armani A/W 2017

Mood board: A collection imagined in evening-worthy hues of of grey, navy, camel and khaki, double-breasted tailored jackets came finished in art deco or swirling psychedelic jacquards, and sumptuous geometric velvets. Paired with slouchy pleated trousers this gave models, some striding with hands in their pockets, a Prohibition-era swagger.

Best in show: A grey velvet overcoat with mismatched paneled stripes, paired with relaxed grey trousers with a subtle turn up.

Finishing touches: Classic pieces came mixed up for modernity using unusual layering, from buttoned-up double-breasted jackets paired with band-collared shirts, to midnight blue velvet bomber jackets layered underneath rich fur-trimmed leather coats.