Mood board: Carlo Brandelli is bringing a new and precise modernity to Savile Row menswear intelligentsia. The Englishman’s contemporary tailoring deftly denotes an anarchic attitude of power and strength, while also resonating a calm, masculine elegance. This season sees Brandelli continue his pledge to redefine the jacket collar and lapel as we know it, introducing the asymmetrical Kilgour ‘K’ lapel in addition to an angled shawl collar. He’s also largely done away with traditional fastenings, instead putting the pocket under his spotlight.
Best in show: This technically ambitious, yet quietly confident collection was loaded with highlights from Brandelli’s fine black wool jacket that was spliced with tiny slashes of cream - inspired by Italian painter Lucio Fontana’s sliced canvases - to his majestically simple, collarless boiled wool overcoat.
Finishing touches: Brandelli dresses the modern man so it makes sense that he’d want to put his stamp on the sneaker epidemic. To wit, this season sees a greyscale, felted wool version that seamlessly blends in with the hem of his flannel trousers.
Images courtesy of Kilgour
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