Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
Mood board: In an age when social media has made our movements contrived and restricted, it’s hard to imagine a collective of young free individuals dressing up simply for fun (rather than Instagram Likes). The Bright Young Things of the 20s and 30s – a group that included debauched aristocrats and bohemians – from Diana Mitford to Stephen Tennant, were famously lensed by society photographer Cecil Beaton, who as he rose through the ranks of society acclaim, practiced portraits with his sisters Nancy and Baba, photographing them infront of tin foil backdrops with bed sheets and feathers. The Robin Muir-curated Bright Young Things exhibition which opens at The National Portrait Gallery in March, inspired Erdem’s A/W 2020 collection. It was one brimming with escapist, ebullient silhouettes — from sweeping opera coats to frilled gowns, nipped in trousers suits to pussy blouses, all shimmering with foil-evoking silver jacquard, lurex and glitter. Beaton also shot portraits of himself in drag during the 20s, against fabric backdrops of stars, checkerboard and polka dot. These references were evoked in tessellated prints across cap sleeve blouses, lean dresses with puffed shoulders and fluid skirts. Coronavirus, Brexit, Storm Dennis: there’s plenty to cause existential angst during the shows, but like the power Beaton had harnessed through his transformative portraits, Moralıoğlu’s offering bought a joyful and transformative escapism to London Fashion Week.
Finishing touches: Moralıoğlu updated the adornments sported by his Bright Young Things (a puffer jacket and a mohair sweater in grungy stripes even featured on the catwalk). Cue beanies swathed in beads (Molly Goddard too amped up the winter staple with big taffeta bows earlier on in the week), chokers sprouting plumes of ostrich feathers and cute buckled sandals with raised flatforms.
Best in show: A flapper dress festooned with scalloped strings of pearls evoked an outfit worn by Beaton in 1927, when he posed in drag as Bright Young Thing Teresa Jungman. Jolly, transformative, and with a soupçon of sparkle.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
The RIBA House of the Year 2024 winner is a delightful work-in-progress
The winner of the RIBA House of the Year 2024 is Six Columns in South London - the home of architect and 31/44 studio co-founder William Burges
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Bold maximalism engulfs The Lafayette Hotel and Club in San Diego
The Lafayette Hotel and Club, designed by Post Company, brings together a rich tapestry of patterns, themes and colours
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Miami Navigator: where to stay, eat, drink and shop in Florida's design-savvy maximalist metropolis
What to do in Miami, where ivory beaches and umbrella-clad caipirinhas share the stage with discerning galleries and global art and design fairs
By Annie Biziou Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Burberry A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated