Best in shows: our standouts of the spring/summer 2018 collections
Photography: Melaine + Ramon. Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure and Jérôme André. Writer: Laura Hawkins
A jolt of colour contributed to Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s ode to German aesthetics of the 1970s and 1980s.
Shirt, £270; trousers, £395; shoes, £340, all by Lemaire
Right, Christopher Kane
The designer’s saccharine yet sensual domestic goddess favoured frothy ruffled details and scarlet shades.
Coat, £3,995, by Christopher Kane. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
As originally featured in the February 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*227)
Far left, Céline
Powerful proportions informed Phoebe Philo’s collection, like this draped dress with an accentuating leather waistline.
Dress, €4,500, by Céline. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. Tights, £35, by Wolford
In a collection inspired by our fragmented digital age, different looks were spliced together, such as this utility-focused boiler suit and jacket.
Coat, £2,250; jumpsuit, £2,650; collar, £280, all by Lanvin
Right, Jil Sander
As part of their debut for the German house, Luke and Lucie Meier offset monastic shapes against skin-baring chequered fabrics.
Dress, £2,220; culottes, £560, both by Jil Sander. Earrings, £240, by Ambush. ‘Stromboli’ table, €5,800, by India Mahdavi
Left, Dior Homme
Sharp tailoring was offset by a soft nostalgia, evoked by ribbon scarves bearing the Rue de Marignan address of the Dior men’s studio in Paris.
Jacket, £1,600; trousers, £590; scarf, £230, all by Dior Homme. Shoes, £387, by Pierre Hardy
Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to Niki de Saint Phalle, this trench coat nodding to the French-American sculptor’s bold use of colour.
Coat, £4,700; boots, £1,150, both by Dior
Left, Raf Simons
There were Japanese elements to the Belgian designer’s offering, which featured oversized blazers buttoned across the chest in homage to the cut of a kimono.
Blazer, €1,239, by Raf Simons
Workwear stitching and movement-friendly shapes did the heavy lifting in Véronique Nichanian’s relaxed offering.
Shirt, £590; trousers, £540, both by Hermès. Scarf, vintage, from Kiliwatch Paris. ‘CH23’ dining chair, £569, by Hans J Wegner, for Carl Hansen & Søn
Left, Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello continued his love affair with the 1980s with voluminous puffball silhouettes inspired by vintage haute couture.
Dress, £12,855, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler
Right, Louis Vuitton
For his Hawaii-inspired collection, menswear director Kim Jones juxtaposed monogrammed surfer tops with oversized Wall Street suiting.
Far right, Louis Vuitton
Meanwhile, head of womenswear Nicolas Ghesquière used leather to add a modern edge to the high necks and wide collars of regimental frock coats.
Coat, £7,500, by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
Part of a catwalk collection that blended gender, genre and decade, Alessandro Michele’s gently flaring suit has real retro flair.
Jacket, £1,310; shirt, £355; trousers, £435; shoes, £2,070, all by Gucci
The Madrid-based house celebrates contemporary craft in this reinterpretation of the trench coat, shredded into curling streams of fabric.
Coat, £4,890; boots, £725, both by Loewe. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. ‘Henri’ bench, €4,860, by India Mahdavi
Far left, Prada
The women’s collection sported polka dots, plastics and fake folds, emphasising Miuccia Prada’s fascination with punk, 1950s fashion and trompe-l’oeil.
Coat, £1,810, by Prada. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler
For menswear, her triple-layered silhouettes looked to comic strips, retro spacesuits and colour-blocked bowling shirts.
Coat, £3,005; shirt (tan), £435; boiler suit (red), £1,030, all by Prada
Right, Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori matched sports-luxe silhouettes with organic shades, as seen in this combo of caramel overcoat and trousers with jogging bottom detail.
Coat, £2,860; trousers, £800, both by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture. Shoes, £340, by Lemaire. Scarf, vintage, from Kiliwatch Paris. ‘Henri’ table, €11,880, by India Mahdavi
Left, Proenza Schouler
With this corset-detail overcoat, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave outerwear silhouettes an eveningwear vibe.
Coat, €3,170, by Proenza Schouler. ‘D.156.3’ armchair, as before
Karl Lagerfeld took on the elements with plastic fantastic double-breasted coats, rain hats and gloves.
Coat, £11,740, by Chanel. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. Tights, £35, by Wolford. ‘Henri’ bench, as before