Left, Lemaire
A jolt of colour contributed to Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s ode to German aesthetics of the 1970s and 1980s.
Shirt, £270; trousers, £395; shoes, £340, all by Lemaire
Right, Christopher Kane
The designer’s saccharine yet sensual domestic goddess favoured frothy ruffled details and scarlet shades.
Coat, £3,995, by Christopher Kane. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
As originally featured in the February 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*227)
Far left, Céline
Powerful proportions informed Phoebe Philo’s collection, like this draped dress with an accentuating leather waistline.
Dress, €4,500, by Céline. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. Tights, £35, by Wolford
Left, Lanvin
In a collection inspired by our fragmented digital age, different looks were spliced together, such as this utility-focused boiler suit and jacket.
Coat, £2,250; jumpsuit, £2,650; collar, £280, all by Lanvin
Right, Jil Sander
As part of their debut for the German house, Luke and Lucie Meier offset monastic shapes against skin-baring chequered fabrics.
Dress, £2,220; culottes, £560, both by Jil Sander. Earrings, £240, by Ambush. ‘Stromboli’ table, €5,800, by India Mahdavi
Left, Dior Homme
Sharp tailoring was offset by a soft nostalgia, evoked by ribbon scarves bearing the Rue de Marignan address of the Dior men’s studio in Paris.
Jacket, £1,600; trousers, £590; scarf, £230, all by Dior Homme. Shoes, £387, by Pierre Hardy
Right, Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to Niki de Saint Phalle, this trench coat nodding to the French-American sculptor’s bold use of colour.
Coat, £4,700; boots, £1,150, both by Dior
Left, Raf Simons
There were Japanese elements to the Belgian designer’s offering, which featured oversized blazers buttoned across the chest in homage to the cut of a kimono.
Blazer, €1,239, by Raf Simons
Right, Hermès
Workwear stitching and movement-friendly shapes did the heavy lifting in Véronique Nichanian’s relaxed offering.
Shirt, £590; trousers, £540, both by Hermès. Scarf, vintage, from Kiliwatch Paris. ‘CH23’ dining chair, £569, by Hans J Wegner, for Carl Hansen & Søn
Left, Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello continued his love affair with the 1980s with voluminous puffball silhouettes inspired by vintage haute couture.
Dress, £12,855, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler
Right, Louis Vuitton
For his Hawaii-inspired collection, menswear director Kim Jones juxtaposed monogrammed surfer tops with oversized Wall Street suiting.
Jacket, £1,950; shirt, £600; top, £440; trousers, £650, all by Louis Vuitton. ‘D.156.3’ armchair, €4,524, by Gio Ponti, for Molteni & C
Far right, Louis Vuitton
Meanwhile, head of womenswear Nicolas Ghesquière used leather to add a modern edge to the high necks and wide collars of regimental frock coats.
Coat, £7,500, by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
Left, Gucci
Part of a catwalk collection that blended gender, genre and decade, Alessandro Michele’s gently flaring suit has real retro flair.
Jacket, £1,310; shirt, £355; trousers, £435; shoes, £2,070, all by Gucci
Right, Loewe
The Madrid-based house celebrates contemporary craft in this reinterpretation of the trench coat, shredded into curling streams of fabric.
Coat, £4,890; boots, £725, both by Loewe. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. ‘Henri’ bench, €4,860, by India Mahdavi
Far left, Prada
The women’s collection sported polka dots, plastics and fake folds, emphasising Miuccia Prada’s fascination with punk, 1950s fashion and trompe-l’oeil.
Coat, £1,810, by Prada. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler
Left, Prada
For menswear, her triple-layered silhouettes looked to comic strips, retro spacesuits and colour-blocked bowling shirts.
Coat, £3,005; shirt (tan), £435; boiler suit (red), £1,030, all by Prada
Right, Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori matched sports-luxe silhouettes with organic shades, as seen in this combo of caramel overcoat and trousers with jogging bottom detail.
Coat, £2,860; trousers, £800, both by Ermenegildo Zegna Couture. Shoes, £340, by Lemaire. Scarf, vintage, from Kiliwatch Paris. ‘Henri’ table, €11,880, by India Mahdavi
Left, Proenza Schouler
With this corset-detail overcoat, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave outerwear silhouettes an eveningwear vibe.
Coat, €3,170, by Proenza Schouler. ‘D.156.3’ armchair, as before
Right, Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld took on the elements with plastic fantastic double-breasted coats, rain hats and gloves.
Coat, £11,740, by Chanel. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler. Tights, £35, by Wolford. ‘Henri’ bench, as before
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Inside Valentino’s glamorous new Sloane Street store, inspired by the art of haute coutureThe latest in Valentino’s ‘The New Maison’ store concept opens on London’s Sloane Street this week, offering an enveloping marble and carpet-clad space of ‘intimacy and uniqueness’
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Aesop’s Salone del Mobile 2024 installations in Milan are multisensory experiencesAesop has partnered with Salone del Mobile to launch a series of installations across Milan, tapping into sight, touch, taste, and scent
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Dial into the Boring Phone and more smartphone alternativesFrom the deliberately dull new Boring Phone to Honor’s latest hook-up with Porsche, a host of new devices that do the phone thing slightly differently
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‘Fashion Faux Parr’: Martin Parr on taking the sheen off fashion photographyMartin Parr talks to Wallpaper* about his new Phaidon book, ’Fashion Faux Parr‘, which documents his distinct approach to fashion photography – from shooting Gucci on Cannes sunbathers to a Vogue shoot in New York’s Katz Deli
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Lanvin embraces the absurd in new collaboration with artist Erwin WurmAustrian artist Erwin Wurm is the latest participant in Lanvin Lab, the French house’s ongoing ’dialogue’ with creatives across disciplines, creating a large-scale sculpture featuring Lanvin’s ’Cat’ bag
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Loewe’s Paula’s Ibiza collection is made for hot and heady summer daysCapturing the joyful hedonism of the Balearic Isle, Loewe Paula’s Ibiza is a colourful and carefree wardrobe for the summer months ahead, and comes with a new scent to match
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Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2025: what Wallpaper* knows so farThe first details of Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2025 have been announced, including appearances from Paul Smith and Marine Serre at Pitti Uomo. In an ongoing round-up, here’s everything that Wallpaper* knows so far
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A/W 2024 beauty moments from the runways, as selected by Wallpaper*We recap stand-out A/W 2024 beauty moments from the runways, including JW Anderson, Chanel, Hermès, and more
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Kim Jones’ Dior Men accessories channel the rebellious spirit of the Buffalo CollectiveAgitator and establishment meet in Kim Jones’ S/S 2024 Dior Men accessories, inspired at once by the house’s history of haute couture and Ray Petri’s 1980s Buffalo Collective
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Dior Spa at Hôtel Plaza Athénée is a Parisian haven for the sleep-deprivedOn World Sleep Day, head to the Dior Spa at Hôtel Plaza Athénée to experience its Light Suite, the first of its kind in Paris
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Celine teases a new beauty line, the first in its 78-year historyCeline Beauté is coming, with lipstick, mascara, eyeliner, and more, designed by Hedi Slimane
