Best in shows: our standouts of the spring/summer 2018 collections
Photography: Melaine + Ramon. Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure and Jérôme André. Writer: Laura Hawkins
A jolt of colour contributed to Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s ode to German aesthetics of the 1970s and 1980s.
Shirt, £270; trousers, £395; shoes, £340, all by Lemaire
Right, Christopher Kane
The designer’s saccharine yet sensual domestic goddess favoured frothy ruffled details and scarlet shades.
Coat, £3,995, by Christopher Kane. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
As originally featured in the February 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*227)
Far left, Céline
Powerful proportions informed Phoebe Philo’s collection, like this draped dress with an accentuating leather waistline.
In a collection inspired by our fragmented digital age, different looks were spliced together, such as this utility-focused boiler suit and jacket.
Coat, £2,250; jumpsuit, £2,650; collar, £280, all by Lanvin
Right, Jil Sander
As part of their debut for the German house, Luke and Lucie Meier offset monastic shapes against skin-baring chequered fabrics.
Dress, £2,220; culottes, £560, both by Jil Sander. Earrings, £240, by Ambush. ‘Stromboli’ table, €5,800, by India Mahdavi
Left, Dior Homme
Sharp tailoring was offset by a soft nostalgia, evoked by ribbon scarves bearing the Rue de Marignan address of the Dior men’s studio in Paris.
Maria Grazia Chiuri paid homage to Niki de Saint Phalle, this trench coat nodding to the French-American sculptor’s bold use of colour.
Coat, £4,700; boots, £1,150, both by Dior
Left, Raf Simons
There were Japanese elements to the Belgian designer’s offering, which featured oversized blazers buttoned across the chest in homage to the cut of a kimono.
Blazer, €1,239, by Raf Simons
Workwear stitching and movement-friendly shapes did the heavy lifting in Véronique Nichanian’s relaxed offering.
Left, Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello continued his love affair with the 1980s with voluminous puffball silhouettes inspired by vintage haute couture.
Right, Louis Vuitton
For his Hawaii-inspired collection, menswear director Kim Jones juxtaposed monogrammed surfer tops with oversized Wall Street suiting.
Far right, Louis Vuitton
Meanwhile, head of womenswear Nicolas Ghesquière used leather to add a modern edge to the high necks and wide collars of regimental frock coats.
Coat, £7,500, by Louis Vuitton. Earrings, £225, by Fay Andrada
Part of a catwalk collection that blended gender, genre and decade, Alessandro Michele’s gently flaring suit has real retro flair.
Jacket, £1,310; shirt, £355; trousers, £435; shoes, £2,070, all by Gucci
The Madrid-based house celebrates contemporary craft in this reinterpretation of the trench coat, shredded into curling streams of fabric.
Far left, Prada
The women’s collection sported polka dots, plastics and fake folds, emphasising Miuccia Prada’s fascination with punk, 1950s fashion and trompe-l’oeil.
Coat, £1,810, by Prada. Earrings, €635, by Proenza Schouler
For menswear, her triple-layered silhouettes looked to comic strips, retro spacesuits and colour-blocked bowling shirts.
Coat, £3,005; shirt (tan), £435; boiler suit (red), £1,030, all by Prada
Right, Ermenegildo Zegna
Alessandro Sartori matched sports-luxe silhouettes with organic shades, as seen in this combo of caramel overcoat and trousers with jogging bottom detail.
Left, Proenza Schouler
With this corset-detail overcoat, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez gave outerwear silhouettes an eveningwear vibe.
Coat, €3,170, by Proenza Schouler. ‘D.156.3’ armchair, as before
Karl Lagerfeld took on the elements with plastic fantastic double-breasted coats, rain hats and gloves.