Fashion in 2023: what to look forward to

We look ahead to fashion in 2023 and another jam-packed year in style, from Daniel Lee’s debut at Burberry to blockbuster exhibitions on Karl Lagerfeld and Coco Chanel

Karl LaKarl Lagerfeld with models on catwalk in front of Chanel store: Among fashion in 2023, the German designer’s career will be celebrated in a retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, New York in May 2023gerfeld with models on catwalk in front of Chanel store
Karl Lagerfeld at the finale of his S/S 2009 show for Chanel. The German designer’s career will be celebrated in a retrospective at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, New York in May 2023
(Image credit: Photo by Michel Dufour/WireImage via Getty Images)

On the cusp of 2023, we look forward to another busy year in style – from Daniel Lee’s much-anticipated debut collection for Burberry in February 2023 at London Fashion Week, to blockbuster exhibitions on Karl Lagerfeld at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel at the V&A in London. Here are the fashion in 2023 moments to look forward to – so far.


Martine Rose will show at Pitti Uomo

In January, British designer Martine Rose will exchange London for Florence, showing her A/W 2023 collection at part of the historic menswear trade fair Pitti Uomo (as this season’s guest designer, she follows such luminaries as Raf Simons, Jonathan Anderson, Craig Green, Grace Wales Bonner, and more). The location will be the city’s Loggia del Mercato Nuovo, a 16th-century market known for the sale of leather goods and souvenirs. ‘Pitti was celebrating men’s design way ahead of the curve and many of the designers I respect have been a part of it,’ says Rose. ‘We are all so excited to come to Florence, a city I love, with our next collection.’

Man in trench coat at Martine Rose runway show

Martine Rose S/S 2023, shown this past June in London

(Image credit: Courtesy of Martine Rose)

Daniel Lee arrives at Burberry

In October 2022, British designer Daniel Lee – the former creative director of Bottega Veneta – was announced as the successor to Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, who exited the heritage brand as chief creative officer in September. Lee will show his debut collection for Burberry as part of London Fashion Week in February 2023, releasing a campaign titled ‘Burberry Classics’ with longtime collaborator Tyrone Lebon a few weeks prior. While his vision for the British stalwart remains so far under wraps, he told American Vogue recently that he wanted to create an ‘iconic chapter’ in the brand’s history, at once surprising and familiar.  ‘I really would like them to see the new vision and feel reassured,’ he said. ‘Like, “Oh, yeah, this makes sense: This is what Burberry should be.”’

Gucci’s next chapter

In November 2022, Alessandro Michele announced his departure from Gucci, the Italian house he helped transform with eclectic, maximalist collections which spanned time and space in their inspirations. As of yet, no designer has been announced as Michele’s successor, though the house is slated to show a menswear collection as part of Milan Fashion Week Men’s in January 2023. Whether this collection is created by an in-house team, or by a last-minute appointment, remains to be seen – though all eyes will certainly be on the show, which takes place on 13 January 2023. 

The Met will celebrate the legacy of Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld working on sketches at Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld in 1984 at Chanel headquarters. ‘Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty’ at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute opens 5 May 2023

(Image credit: Photo by John van Hasselt/Corbis via Getty Images)

Opening 5 May 2023, the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute in New York will celebrate the life and career of Karl Lagerfeld, whose tenures at Balmain, Patou, Chloé, Fendi and, most famously, Chanel, made him one of fashion’s definitive figures. ‘He was the Hitchcock of fashion. There was always a representation of Karl on his runway,’ said Andrew Bolton, the Costume Institute’s curator, at an event in Paris in September 2022. Titled ‘Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty’ and supported by Chanel and Fendi, the exhibition will also provide the theme of the coinciding Met Gala, with the typically star-studded guest list interpreting Lagerfeld’s designs with their own red-carpet looks. 

At London’s V&A, a new exhibition focuses on Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

Lagerfeld’s forebear Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel will be the subject of her own exhibition in London, ‘Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto’ at the V&A from 16 September 2023. The first British exhibition to celebrate the work of the French couturière, it will chart the advent of the house and its subsequent influence on the way that women dress today. The comprehensive exhibition – comprised of over 180 looks and spanning 1910-1971 – will include accessories, cosmetics and perfumes, and will no doubt follow the blockbuster success of the museum’s previous fashion exhibitions (‘Christian Dior: Designer Of Dreams’ and ‘Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty’ among them). 

2023 will mark 30 years of Pleats Please Issey Miyake

Woman in pleats please issey miyake colourful dress and bag

Pleats Please Issey Miyake 30th anniversary limited-edition dress and bag 

(Image credit: Courtesy of Issey Miyake)

Pleats Please Issey Miyake – the offshoot of the Japanese brand that features Miyake’s unique technical pleating in oftentimes bold tones – will mark three decades since its advent in May 2023, having first been shown as part of the late Miyake’s S/S 1994 collection. Running with the motto ‘design is not for philosophy, but for life’, the lightweight, wrinkle-proof garments have since gained a devoted cult following. To celebrate, a small capsule collection will be released by the brand, comprising a colourful new limited-edition print. 

Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.