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Sculpted silhouettes, warped weaves, razor-sharp cuts – men’s tailoring is imbued with a spirit of subversion this season, as designers and brands seek to rework and reimagine the suit. Their spoils arrive at the beginning of a season filled with potential for dressing up; here, as taken from the December 2023 Entertaining Issue of Wallpaper* – photographed by Daniel Riera Fashion with fashion by David St John – a selection of that tailoring ready to make an impression over the celebratory winter months ahead.
Razor-sharp men’s tailoring to make an impression this winter
Jacket, £1,650; top, £610; trousers, £1,150; shoes, £1,050, all by Fendi
Take the unexpected proportions of Gucci’s elongated double-breasted blazer and wide-legged tailored shorts (top left), a playful top-heavy silhouette nonetheless conjuring the Italian elegance at the heart of the label. Or from Fendi, an immaculate single-breasted suit whereby the trousers are overlaid with a diaphanous apron-like skirt (below); when it was first shown in Milan, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi said she was inspired by the outré dress codes of infamous New York nightspot Studio 54.
Others riff on classic tailoring archetypes, like Dolce & Gabbana’s take on the white tuxedo – here cut with a narrow sculpted waist – or the shrunken two-tone lapel of a double-breasted suit by Maximillian Davis at Ferragamo which recalls military uniforms, here reimagined with a minimal rigour.
Jacket, £2,550; trousers, £1,050; boots, £1,175, all by Alexander McQueen
Jacket, £2,550; trousers, £1,050; boots, £1,175, all by Alexander McQueen
Jacket, £4,100; shirt, £900; trousers, £800, all by Hermès. Shoes, £1,115, by John Lobb
Jacket, £2,600; sleeves, £1,100; top, £1,450; trousers, £1,300, all by Dior. Shoes, €850, by Santoni. ‘Fynn’ armchair, from £4,890, by GamFratesi, for Minotti
Jacket; trousers; gloves; shoes, all price on request, by Dolce & Gabbana
Jacket; trousers; gloves; shoes, all price on request, by Dolce & Gabbana
Jacket, £2,825; shirt, £240; trousers, £1,505, all by Ferragamo
Jacket, £2,590; top, £1,605; trousers, £965; shoes £1,290, all by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello
Jacket, £2,720; trousers, £1,030, both by Louis Vuitton. Shoes, £1,115, by John Lobb ‘CH88T’ chair, £491, by Hans J Wegner, for Carl Hansen & Søn
Model: Przemek Szubert at Riches Mgm. Casting: Ikki Casting at The Art Board. Grooming: Chris Sweeney at One Represents using Hair Rituel by Sisley. Digi tech: Marc de Miguel. Fashion assistant: Molly Swatman. Retouching: La Cápsula Fotográfica.
A version of this story appeared in the December 2023 Entertaining Issue of Wallpaper*, available in print from 9 November, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today!