Mood board: Hussein Chalayan has never shied away from dense or intellectual subject matter, and for S/S 2019, the designer looked to the Abduction of the Sabine Women, an incident of mass abduction in Roman mythology, for inspiration. This tricky and troubling myth was evoked in beautifully constructed garments that hinted at pulling and tearing: jackets with collars which hung back on the body, t-shirts and check waistcoats with ruches and jackets with elasticated waistbands. Amongst the plethora of performance wear on London’s S/S 2019 catwalk, it was a refreshing and well-cut take on a more refined and tailored wardrobe.
Finishing touches: accessories and ready-to-wear were amalgamated into one piece, in a bid to empower the wearer and make them immovable. Burnt orange shorts, cotton shirts and hooded sweatshirts had cross body bags sewn into their construction, a distinct and functional take on the hybrid styles that dominated the men’s and women’s catwalks last season.
Best show: a deconstructed trench coat came with spliced cut outs at the chest, and a loose check trousers came with an inbuilt shoulder bag that crossed the body. Elsewhere, those jackets, which hung back from the neck would look equally elegant as an eveningwear alternative for women.
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