Sweet Sauternes: France’s forgotten wine gets a reputational makeover
Saskia de Rothschild is on a mission to revive the popularity of Sauternes white wine, with Rieussec, produced and packaged with a fresh, more sustainable approach
Sauternes, for those who even know what it is, has developed a bit of an unfavourable reputation in recent years. A sweet white wine made in the Bordeaux region of the same name, Sauternes was once a highly prized indulgence, but today it is rarely served outside of end-of-year celebrations or perhaps alongside the occasional foie gras.
Yet there is a revolution brewing in Bordeaux; one aimed at upending the tired reputation of Sauternes and restoring it to its place as a wine du jour. It’s a coup led by Saskia de Rothschild, the sixth generation leader of Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) wine group, which produces some of the most esteemed wine in the world and spans multiple Bordeaux estates, as well as wineries in China, Argentina, and Chile.
De Rothschild has spent her lifetime learning the ins and outs of her family’s vineyards, and since assuming the role of Lafite chairwoman she has steered the company towards a more sustainable agriculture. Château Rieussec, the estate on which she is growing her new take on Sauternes, is a continuation of her ecological project.
‘The time had come for Rieussec to reinvent itself, so that the vineyard, wine and bottle all share the same commitment to sustainable development, from agriculture that is more respectful of the environment through to the preservation of natural resources provided by our new packaging,' explains de Rothschild. ‘Devising an original bottle, one that you want to keep when it’s finished, is part of this same philosophy.’
Rieussec’s innovation
The bottle is made of 95 per cent recycled glass and emblazoned with a simple, graphic crown that gives the wine a distinctly modern edge. Most impressive is the bottle’s replaceable cork closure; created by Swiss design studio Big-Game (which has worked with the likes of Hay, Alessi, and Muuto), it makes it possible for the wine to keep in the fridge for several weeks after it is opened.
When it comes to what is inside the bottle, Rieussec does not disappoint. Because of Sauternes’ unique climate, it is one of the few regions in the world where ‘noble rot’ (a moulding of the grapes that gives it a distinct, honeyed flavour) can happen frequently. It also means that each harvest of the Rieussec grapes has its own distinct flavour.
‘Each vintage is totally different depending on what nature, the climate and the action of noble rot want to give us,’ says estate director Jean de Roquefeuil. ‘And even more so since we are undergoing conversion to a more responsible form of agriculture.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Rieussec is certainly an interesting experiment in wine-making. Whether this reimagining of Sauternes will catch on remains to be seen, but we’ll have our glassware sets at the ready to toast it.
INFORMATION
Mary Cleary is a writer based in London and New York. Previously beauty & grooming editor at Wallpaper*, she is now a contributing editor, alongside writing for various publications on all aspects of culture.
-
Gucci’s ‘Blondie’ bag revival sees the enduring 1970s accessory reimagined anew
First shown at Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Cruise 2025 show in London, a new iteration of Gucci’s beloved ‘Blondie’ bag fuses 1970s insouciance with a crisp modernity
By Jack Moss Published
-
Private museum Simple Design Archive is a ‘poetic sound sanctuary’ in China
Simple Design Archive, located in China’s Anhui province, is a private museum by HAS Design and Research, fostering a contemplative environment
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
All hail the arrival of true autonomy? On Tesla’s proposed Robotaxi and techno-insecurity
Tesla’s new marketing push predicts a future of robot cabs, automated buses and autonomous home androids. We already want to get off
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Toklas’ own-label wine is a synergy of art, taste and ‘elevated simplicity’
Toklas, a London restaurant and bakery, have added another string to its bow ( and menu) with a trio of cuvées with limited-edition designs
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Château Galoupet is teaching the world how to drink more responsibly
From reviving an endangered Provençal ecosystem to revisiting wine packaging, Château Galoupet aims to transform winemaking from terroir to bottle
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
London’s most refreshing summer cocktail destinations
Cool down in the sweltering city with a visit to London’s summer cocktail destinations
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Learn how to curate a simple cheese board with perfect port pairings
The experts at artisan cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield share tips for curating a simple but sophisticated cheese board, with port and cheese pairings for every taste
By Melina Keays Last updated
-
IWA sake brewery by Kengo Kuma is Best Roofscape: Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
IWA sake brewery in Japan, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, scoops Best Roofscape at the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2022
By Tony Chambers Last updated
-
The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery by Neri & Hu offers a twist on Chinese tradition
Neri & Hu designs headquarters for The Chuan Malt Whisky Distillery in China's Sichuan province
By Yoko Choy Last updated
-
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel opens Booking Office 1869 restaurant
Booking Office 1869 restaurant, at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, is set to become a new London hotspot. Developer Harry Handelsman and designer Hugo Toro tell us about its creation
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Le Dôme by Foster + Partners perfectly blends architecture and landscape
Foster + Partners’ new winery for French producer Le Dôme is a perfectly balanced blend of architecture and landscape
By Natasha Levy Last updated