We love an Italian coffee shop. Distinctively old-school interiors, the clinking of the cups as the servers busily handle the orders behind the counter, and steam hissing as the milk gets frothed into a perfect cappuccino. So we asked our Milanese friends to give us their favoured haunts. The resulting list includes standouts that everyone should visit at least once during a stay in Milan (Marchesi, Cucchi and Sant Ambroeus, we are looking at you), neighbourhood caffetterie that have stayed frozen in time, and innovative locales whose modus operandi is based on experimenting with coffee-making and pastry-baking.
But do our Milanese friends like to sit down or have their coffee al banco? The group is split evenly between those who take their breakfast sitting down (preferably outside) and those who enjoy the bustle of a busy counter. Read on to discover what they feel makes each space special, and their usual breakfast order.
(Hungry for something else? Check out our directory of the best pizza in Milan.)
The best coffee (and pastries) in Milan according to the city’s creatives
01. Alvin’s
Recommended by: Frederik De Wachter and Alberto Artesani, DWA
Why is it a favourite: 'It's our local and the pastries are delicious.'
What to order: Artesani's breakfast is usually an americano coffee, a pain suisse and a fresh orange juice, while De Wachter's order features a cappuccino and cornetto alla crema (custard-filled croissant).
Sit down or al banco? Sit down.
Alvin’s, Via Melchiorre Gioia 141
02. Liviana
Recommended by: Valentina Ciuffi, co-founder, Alcova, and founder, Studio Vedèt
Why is it a favourite: ‘It's my old neighbourhood café, it's frozen in time and very special.’
Liviana, Via Francesco Hayez 14
03. Sugar
Recommended by: Marco Sammicheli, curator, Triennale Milano, and director, Museo del Design Italiano
Why is it a favourite: 'The espresso is excellent, as is the gianduja beignet. The people are fast and smiley.'
What to order: 'Cappuccino with double foam, ham and cheese toastie.'
Sit down or al banco? Al banco.
Sugar, Via Vincenzo Monti 26
04. Leonardo
Recommended by: Caterina Fabrizio, CEO and co-owner Dedar; Eleonore Cavalli, art director, Visionnaire
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a typical Italian neighbourhood bar.' explains Fabrizio. 'It looks unassuming, but what they do is delicious.' Cavalli echoes this sentiment: 'Their croissant and cappuccino are to die for.'
Leonardo's story is worth a mention: a historical locale once owned by a Milanese family, it was eventually sold to one of the café's employees, who brought in a young team who continue to make delicious pastries.
'Manga, the barista, is a coffee genius: the best for speed, friendliness and memory: you walk in, and he is already making your order,' notes Fabrizio.
'It's humble, but very Milanese,' adds Cavalli.
What to order: Cavalli orders a fresh orange juice on her way back from a park walk, while Fabrizio's order includes a caffè ristretto with water and milk on the side, as well as a custard and pine nut tart, or the one with berries. 'They also have delicious savoury focaccia: I sometimes pick up a few slices to take home to my kids.'
Leonardo, Via Aurelio Saffi 7
05. Morelli
Recommended by: Carola Bestetti, CEO, Living Divani
Why is it a favourite: 'For a quick coffee, they make the best espresso.'
What to order: Espresso and a croissant with a glass of sparkling water
Sit down or al banco? ‘If I'm just having an espresso, I stand at the counter, otherwise, I’d rather sit down and take it more relaxed.'
Caffetteria Morelli, Via Pietro Borsieri 29
06. Casa Capitano, Via Castel Morrone 35
Recommended by: Letizia Caramia and Morten Thuesen, founders, Older; Giulio Ridolfo, colour expert
Why is it a favourite: 'We are big coffee drinkers and this, to us, is the finest espresso in Milano,' explain Caramia and Thuesen, whose studio is just above. 'It is made on an incredible Izzo espresso lever machine. Their blend has a subtle balance in acidity and smoothness: it’s never burnt, but short, dry and precise – the perfect espresso experience.'
What to order: 'We are normally egg and yogurt people when it comes to breakfast, but if we are to have breakfast out, it would be toast, espresso and a grapefruit spremuta – very simple, very good,' say Caramia and Thuesen. For Ridolfo, meanwhile, it's a plain croissant, a glass of water and a cappuccino, then a black coffee at the bar.
Sit down or al banco? 'We are not dogmatic about it, but we prefer standing, as it is more informal and allows us to have a chat with the people behind the counter – there is something quite beautiful about that gesture,' say Caramia and Thuesen. Ridolfo also loves sitting outside, under the oak trees.
Casa Capitano, Via Castel Morrone 35
07. El Brellin
Recommended by: Marva Griffin Wilshire, founder, Salone Satellite
Why is it a favourite: 'It's close to my house and I stop on my way to the office,' she says. 'It has become a gathering spot for my local friends.'
What to order: 'I have breakfast at home but then I drink a macchiato caldo.'
Sit down or al banco? 'I am usually in a rush to get to the office, so I drink it standing up at the counter.'
El Brellin, Vicolo Privato Lavandai
08. Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7
Recommended by: Federica Biasi, designer; Piero Lissoni, architect and creative director
Why is it a favourite: 'It's one of my Milanese icons,' says Lissoni. 'It has a suspended, timeless atmosphere: quiet, curated, effortlessly elegant,' adds Biasi.
What to order: Biasi orders an espresso, a chocolate croissant and a glass of water, while Lissoni's favourites include a krantz (a brioche with raisins) or a mini sandwich, and a cappuccino.
Sit down or al banco? It's a sit down for both, with a book for Biasi ('30 minutes, never less') and the paper for Lissoni.
Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7
09. Hygge
Recommended by: Maria Porro, president, Salone del Mobile
Why is it a favourite: 'It’s the place in the city that reminds me most of Reykjavik Roasters – a café that has become a true classic in the Icelandic capital, which my friends Amalia and Greipur introduced me to years ago,' says Porro.
What to order: 'For breakfast, I order a filtered coffee and a slice of carrot cake.'
Sit down or al banco? 'I usually sit at the large wooden table.'
Hygge, Via Giuseppe Sapeto
10. Iter
Recommended by: Annalisa Rosso, editorial and cultural director, Salone del Mobile, and co-founder, Mr Lawrence
Why is it a favourite: 'The team is lovely and the atmosphere is relaxed,' says Rosso. 'I feel at home.'
What to order: 'I have a decaf cappuccino and a slice of cake; and they also have food from all over the world and great wines plus cocktails.'
Sit down or al banco? 'I take my coffee rigorously standing at the counter!'
Iter, Via Fusetti 1
11. L’Angolo dell’Aperitivo
Recommended by: Stefano Boeri, architect
Why is it a favourite: 'It's the new Jamaica,' says Boeri.
What to order: A plain croissant and a cappuccino.
Sit down or al banco? ‘Usually standing at the counter, but if I have time, I sit down with a paper – La Gazzetta dello Sport.’
L’Angolo dell’Aperitivo, Via Galvano Fiamma 17
12. L’Arabesque
Recommended by: Federica Sala, curator
Why is it a favourite: 'I have breakfast at home; I like my moka and have coffee first thing after I wake up,' explains Sala. 'But this is my favourite place [for later] as it's close to home, has good coffee and pastries, their glasses are beautiful and a joy to hold; everything is very carefully curated.’
What to order: A grapefruit spremuta,'and something sweet.
L’Arabesque, Via Francesco Sforza 2
13. La Mary
Recommended by: Cara Judd and Davide Gramatica, designers, Cara\Davide
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a small neighbourhood bakery with a focus on mono-portion cakes, where we like to meet our friends.'
What to order: 'Our usual is a coffee and a cappuccino, small pastries called “The Eyes of Mary” [pictured above], and a tiramisu.'
Sit down or al banco? 'We sit outside.'
La Mary, Via Marcona 70
14. La Pasticceria del Take Away
Recommended by: Francesca Molteni, film director
Why is it a favourite: 'It's an intimate local haunt, managed by the same family, a good place to chat (if time allows) and the pastries are very good.'
What to order: 'Coffee and, sometimes, a freshly baked biscuit.'
Sit down or al banco? 'Standing at the counter, I am always in a rush in the morning!'
La Pasticceria del Take Away, Via San Marco 34
15. Marchesi 1824
Recommended by: Michela Pelizzari, founder, PS; Nina Yashar, founder, Nilufar; Nicolas Bellavance-Lecompte, founder, Nomad; Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin, designers, Formafantasma
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a historical location that embodies the most authentic Milanese tradition,' explains Yashar. 'Its elegant, timeless atmosphere reflects the city's history.' Bellavance-Lecompte agrees: 'It feels suspended in another era of Milan.'
What to order: A custard croissant and double espresso for Pelizzari and Yashar ('a classic that never goes out of fashion', says the gallerist), caffè lungo in a large cup and a freshly pressed grapefruit juice for Bellavance-Lecompte, a slice of Sacher for Farresin and a tramezzino for Trimarchi.
Sit down or al banco? Everyone agrees here: the real Milanese coffee ritual means standing at the counter.
Marchesi 1824, Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/a
16. Orsonero
Recommended by: Guglielmo Poletti, designer
Why is it a favourite: 'Despite my Italian roots, I have a passion for drip coffee. Orsonero strikes the perfect balance between great specialty brews, a sober, tasteful interior and a beautiful neighbourhood setting.'
What to order: A black, fruity drip coffee. No milk, no sugar.
Sit down or al banco? Always seated – ideally outside.
Orsonero, Via Giuseppe Broggi 15
17. Pasticceria Cucchi
Recommended by: David Raffoul and Nicolas Moussallem, designers, David/Nicolas; Alberto Biagetti and Laura Baldassari, designers, Atelier Biagetti
Why is it a favourite: 'We love the terrace; it is one of the few in Milan that is so generous. The service is perfect, and it is only five minutes from our apartments and office,' say Raffoul and Moussallem. 'A few places remain in Milan where coffee is served alla vecchia maniera (old style), and Cucchi is our favourite. It's a place where coffee is still serious business: staff wear traditional uniforms, and the cups are small, traditional, perfect,' says Biagetti.
What to order: 'Definitely an espresso. For food, the Cucchi omelette for David and the pain au chocolat for Nicolas.' Meanwhile, Biagetti and Baldassari opt for a savoury breakfast: coffee and croissant with egg and anchovies.
Sit down or al banco? It's a sit down for everyone here: 'We want to enjoy every minute we can on that terrace,' say Raffoul and Moussallem.
Cucchi, Corso Genova 1
18. Ranieri
Recommended by: Cristina Celestino, designer
What to order: A soy cappuccino with chocolate and a meringue.
Sit down or al banco? 'Strictly at the counter, as any good Milanese would!'
Ranieri, Via Moscova 7
19. Pasticceria Rovida
Recommended by: Arianna Lelli Mami, designer and co-founder, Studiopepe; Valentina Ciuffi, co-founder, Alcova, and founder, Studio Vedèt
Why is it a favourite: 'I am not a big coffee drinker, but I like pastries, and Rovida is a great location with a fantastic atmosphere,' says Lelli Mami.
What to order: An almond croissant for Lelli Mami ('it's sensational') and a tramezzino for Ciuffi.
Sit down or al banco? Sit down and enjoy the atmosphere.
Pasticceria Rovida, Via Domenico Scarlatti 21
20. Sissi
Recommended by: Anniina Koivu, curator and founder, Koivu; Giulia Molteni, chief marketing officer, Molteni Group; Patricia Urquiola, architect and creative director, Cassina
Why is it a favourite: 'Run by Sissi and her husband Zik from the beginning, Pasticceria Sissi is perfect for quick morning break – a place to brush shoulders with the local intelligentsia at the packed banco,' says Koivu. 'But it’s also ideal for a more relaxed, extended pause – the kind you might want to spend on the pergola-covered patio in the back, where shade and cool air have softened many a stolen summer afternoon.'
What to order: The cafe's pomegranate and ginger spremuta is a favourite here, as are the croissants ('with just a hint of jam, a welcome relief from Milan’s overstuffed brioche!').
Sit down or al banco? Sitting in the garden is a ritual here, ideally, as for Molteni, with a paper on a weekend morning.
Sissi, Piazza Risorgimento 6
21. Piccolo Pan
Recommended by: Alberto Biagetti and Laura Baldassari, designers, Atelier Biagetti
Why is it a favourite: 'For when we feel like a coffee break with an Asian touch.'
What to order: 'A matcha macchiato and a taste of Tokuyoshi's pastries: you'll want to try them all.'
Piccolo Pan, Via Ausonio 23
22. Radetzky
Recommended by: Piero Lissoni, architect and creative director
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a Milanese icon: classical music, smell of coffee, quiet and a perfect spot to read the paper.'
Sit down or al banco? Sit down.
Radetzky, Corso Garibaldi 105
23. Romanengo
Recommended by: Barnaba Fornasetti, artistic director, Fornasetti
Why is it a favourite: 'Because it's a small, cosy, hidden corner.'
What to order: 'A coffee and one of their delicious cakes'
Sit down or al banco? 'I sit down. I like to walk slowly through Milan. I'm not looking for anything extraordinary: I'm looking for real life. I stop at the cafés I come across along the way, sit in silence, and observe. I listen to the voices, the clinking of cups, the buzz of conversations. I breathe in the city as it is, with its natural elegance and its everyday simplicity.'
Romanengo, Via Caminadella 23
24. Sant Ambroeus
Recommended by: Roberto Gavazzi, CEO, Boffi; Giulio Cappellini, founder, Cappellini; Piero Lissoni, architect and creative director
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a historic venue that exudes authentic Milanese style, with a pleasant veranda where you can have business meetings in the morning while enjoying excellent pastries,' says Gavazzi. 'So many generations of Milanesi have come through the doors of this café,' adds Cappellini.
What to order: For Gavazzi: 'I order the Montecarlo, a macchiato with a bed of dark chocolate on the bottom and more chocolate chips on top. A house speciality that makes it the best macchiato in town. I add a shortcrust pastry with wild strawberries and a glass of still water.' Cappellini, meanwhile, opts for the classic triad of caffè macchiato, croissant and spremuta.
Sit down or al banco? Everybody agrees: Sant Ambroeus is a place to sit down.
Sant Ambroeus, Corso Matteotti 7
25. Signor Lievito
Recommended by: Hannes Peer, architect and designer
Why is it a favourite: 'Because it feels the way I hoped it would feel,' says Peer, who designed the interiors. 'Warm, tactile, almost elemental. The smell of fermentation, the glow of the oven, the quiet rhythm of the morning crowd. I know every proportion and material choice, but what makes me happy is seeing it truly lived in. A space only works once it becomes part of someone’s daily ritual.'
What to order: 'Fresh oven bread slices, still warm, with whipped butter and jam. Oat cappuccino, the best. Very simple, very essential. Sometimes an espresso afterwards, as a sharp Milanese punctuation mark.'
Sit down or al banco? ‘Sit down. With my husband. We have our angle, our spot. It is about the moment, the conversation, and that small pause before the day begins.’
Signor Lievito, Via Maestri Campionesi 26
26. Taveggia 1909
Recommended by: Laura May Todd, journalist and Wallpaper* Milan editor
Why is it a favourite: 'I discovered it one morning after trying to have my usual breakfast at a nearby place that had unfortunately gone viral online and subsequently drawn a block-long line,' says Todd. 'Taveggia 1909 has all the trappings of a classic Milanese café: the history, white-shirted waiters, fantastic house-made pastries – but without all the buzz and crowds. Plus, the interior was designed by the architect Gaetano Moretti (the first dean of the Politecnico di Milano) in the 1930s and features some of the most stunning original millwork in the city.’
What to order: ‘A cappuccino and pistachio brioche.’
Sit down or al banco? ‘Al banco (the sala in the back recently underwent a bad renovation, so just ignore that it's there).’
Taveggia 1909, Via Uberto Visconti di Modrone 2
27. Tone
Recommended by: Giacomo Moor, designer and cabinet maker
Why is it a favourite: 'It’s not a classic Italian coffee spot; you can try amazing different kinds of bread.'
What to order: 'I don’t drink coffee, so I usually have orange juice and khachapuri with an egg.'
Sit down or al banco? A takeaway, 'in my studio'.
Tone, Via Donatello 22
28. Torrefazione De Pedrina
Recommended by: Olimpia Zagnoli, illustrator
Why is it a favourite: 'It's a tiny café where there's no place to sit, you can only lean against the aluminium counter for a few seconds and chat with Donatella, the queen of the neighbourhood.’
Torrefazione De Pedrina, Via Odoardo Tabacchi 1