Tracey Emin retrospective, London

'White Rose', 2007
'Love is What you Want' at the Hayward Gallery (until 29th August) is a major mid-career retrospective of Tracey Emin's work, comprising over 170 pieces including 'White Rose', 2007 Photograph by David Levene
(Image credit: David Levene)

Tracey Emin's work may be as depraved, egotistical and confrontational as ever - there's even a used tampon thrown into one of her new pieces - but she's never been more in favour. Not only has she been swept up in the arms of the Hayward Gallery (opens in new tab) this month, which is staging a major retrospective of her work, but she's also being embraced by Louis Vuitton (opens in new tab). The luxury fashion brand is currently both showing her work in store and flaunting a limited edition hand-rolled, hand-stitched silk scarf by Emin as its latest must-have item.

Watch an interview with Tracey Emin as she prepares for her Hayward gallery show

But let's start with the Hayward Gallery. For someone who has exposed just about every aspect of her life, it's amazing we've not had enough of Emin. Yet it's hard not to be absorbed by the way the British artist pieces together and packages the fragments of her existence - as embroidered scrawl on blankets and chairs, short-but-potent films and intense neon statements, all represented in this exhibition.

The works here (over 170 in total) have an extraordinary narrative pull, with a speedy stroll around the show likely to take several hours. Sure there's some repetition: the endless self-pity and the constant cries to be loved. But there's also huge poignancy to her work, particularly pieces like 'Knowing My Enemy' (2002) - a vast sculpture of a collapsed pier, with a hut at the end. Made in response to a letter from her father (framed on the wall of the gallery), it's her vision of the safe haven he longed for but could never quite reach.

Tracey Emin retrospective, London

(Image credit: TBC)

But it's her drawings that capture us most, which are given a whole room at the Hayward Gallery: those fraught, trembling lines, sometimes incarnated as monoprints or etchings, other times as stitching. Which brings us neatly back to Louis Vuitton. In its New Bond Street Maison, the fashion brand has given over its Exhibition Space and Libraire - where it commissions, exhibits and sells limited edition works and books by artists (see W*136) - to Emin's works, in particular her prints.

Hung in the Libraire are eight new etchings by Emin, bearing her inimitable scrawl. Produced in collaboration with Counter Editions (opens in new tab) and Carl Freedman Gallery (opens in new tab), these are encased in an Emin-designed leather case and the complete box set is being sold in an edition of ten. You can also pick up one of 50 hand-rolled, hand-stitched silk scarves, entitled 'Sex 21 Sydney (2011)'.

appliquéd blankets (various dates)

A series of appliquéd blankets (various dates) by Tracey Emin
Photograph by David Levene

(Image credit: David Levene)

'Running Naked'

'Running Naked' by Tracey Emin, 2000/11
Courtesy of the artist

(Image credit: TBC)

'Knowing My Enemy' (2002)

A series of appliquéd blankets (various dates) and 'Knowing My Enemy' (2002), by Tracey Emin

(Image credit: David Levene)

'Salem'

Foreground: 'Salem' by Tracey Emin, 2005

(Image credit: David Levene)

'Love is What You Want'

'Love is What You Want' by Tracey Emin, 2011
Courtesy of the artist

(Image credit: TBC)

'I've got it all'

'I've got it all' by Tracey Emin, 2000
Courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

(Image credit: TBC)

'There's Alot of Money in Chairs'

'There's Alot of Money in Chairs' by Tracey Emin, 1994
Courtesy of Jay Jopling / White Cube

(Image credit: TBC)

'Mother, Father, Children'

'Mother, Father, Children' by Tracey Emin, 2011, shown on the sculpture terrace and created especially for the Hayward Gallery exhibition
Photograph by David Levene

(Image credit: David Levene)

given over the Exhibition Space and Libraire of its New Bond Street Store

Louis Vuitton, which is supporting the Hayward Gallery show, has also given over the Exhibition Space and Libraire of its New Bond Street Store to Emin's work

(Image credit: TBC)

'Love is What You Want'

Both shows take their name from Emin's 2011 neon work, 'Love is What You Want'

(Image credit: TBC)

installation at Louis Vuitton New Bond Street

Tracey Emin installation at Louis Vuitton New Bond Street

(Image credit: TBC)

'Sex 21 Sydney,'

'Sex 21 Sydney,' by Tracey Emin, 2011. Sold as a limited edition hand-rolled, hand-stitched silk scarf. Each scarf comes with a tag, signed and numbered by the artist

(Image credit: TBC)

ground etchings in the Librairie

Eight soft-ground etchings in the Librairie, produced in a limited edition of 100

(Image credit: TBC)

bespoke Emin-designed leather box

The eight etchings are sold in a bespoke Emin-designed leather box (in an edition of 10)

(Image credit: TBC)

autobiographical Exploration of the Soul and Details of Depression

Also in the Libraire are two artist's books: the autobiographical Exploration of the Soul and Details of Depression, both limited editions, signed and numbered by the artist

(Image credit: TBC)

'Tracey x Tracey'

'Tracey x Tracey' by Tracey Emin, 2006, screen printed on calico and produced in an edition of 200

(Image credit: TBC)

'Insane Reflection'

'Insane Reflection' by Tracey Emin, 2006, screen printed, hand-stitched on cotton, and produced in an edition of 200

(Image credit: TBC)

'Hades, Hades, Hades'

'Hades, Hades, Hades' by Tracey, 2009 - two screen prints, hand stitched on cotton, and produced in an edition of 200

(Image credit: TBC)