The body, pleasure and play: Beryl Cook and Tom of Finland united in London
Tom of Finland’s homoeroticism meets Beryl Cook’s female-oriented camp as Studio Voltaire unites work by the two artists in a London exhibition
A playful hyperreality appealed to both Beryl Cook (1926-2008) and Tom of Finland (1920-1991), whose work in the 20th century celebrated pleasure for its own sake. Despite obvious differences between the two artists – the UK’s Cook, with her larger-than-life women cavorting in often quintessentially British settings; and Tom of Finland (aka Touko Laaksonen), who lived in both Finland and the US, and his depictions of a queer masculinity – they are linked by their consideration of class, gender and sexuality.
Now, the two are being considered side by side in a London art exhibition at Studio Voltaire, looking at both their work and the impact it had on a wider audience. Here, curator Nicola Wright tells us what unites them.
Beryl Cook and Tom of Finland at Studio Voltaire
Beryl Cook, Lady of Marseille, c.1990
Wallpaper: Can you tell us why you wanted to unite these artists and draw parallels between their work?
Nicola Wright: Fundamentally, both Beryl Cook and Tom of Finland were artists who prioritised pleasure in their works and denied shame.
Though Tom of Finland’s work [preserved and celebrated by the Tom of Finland Foundation] was heavily based in fantasy, and designed to arouse, the artist aimed to produce images of gay men that counteracted the atmosphere of oppression and stereotypes of effeminacy he had grown up with. In contrast, Tom’s drawings present gay men as strong, happy, sexual – and public.
If Tom of Finland’s works are explicitly sexual, Cook is equally interested in sensual experience and excess, but she locates it in the convivial atmosphere of cafés, hen parties, with female protagonists such as her Lady of Marseille (c.1990).
Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1964
W*: In both artists’ work, the body takes on larger-than-life personas. How do they differ in the ways they portray this celebration of the body?
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
NW: Tom of Finland came to define a lexicon of queer masculine archetypes through his work. Although the artist adhered to a specific ideal in his depictions of men – tight narrow waists, broad shoulders, jutting jaws and bulging crotches – he exaggerated their attributes to heroic proportions and charged them with an explicit homoeroticism. In doing so, his works subverted heteronormative tropes of masculinity and authority, indelibly changing how gay men could be seen, and see themselves.
Cook’s images of larger women are in some ways the opposite of Tom’s men, but [the artists] share a way of hyperrealising the body that is visually powerful. [With Cook] heightening the details of their bodies, dress and expressions, the women in her works are both class-coded and engage with female-oriented forms of camp. Though playful, Cook’s women resist ‘polite’ femininity, fully and unapologetically taking up space. By prioritising and celebrating bigger bodies, Cook points to wider connotations related to the intersection of body size, gender and class.
Beryl Cook,The Lockyer Tavern, c. 1974
W*: What surprised you when viewing and considering these works together?
NW: The initial impulse to pair the two came from this sense that they shared a way of exaggerating bodies and an eye for excess. Numerous other ties became clear as we researched the show: their use of commercial platforms and methods of reproduction to circulate their works, the way both speak to ideas of class and taste.
Related story
Their works also revealed more direct thematic lines – for example, Cook’s role in documenting queer life in works such as Lockyer Tavern (c.1974) and ‘Bangs’ Disco (1977). (Bangs was ‘London’s first gay superclub’ – after several permutations it emerged as the renowned G-A-Y nightclub.)
Both [artists] had respectively large fandoms, whom they cared about deeply: the exhibition includes some of Cook’s fan mail, which she always answered. Poignantly, the exhibition also includes some of Tom’s collected fan mail stamps. Fearing that his correspondence could ‘out’ his followers should it fall into the wrong hands, he destroyed the letters, keeping only the stamps as a memento.
‘Beryl Cook / Tom of Finland’ at Studio Voltaire, London, until 25 August 2024
Tom of Finland, Untitled, 1962 (from the Athletic Model Guild ‘The Tattooed Sailor’ series)
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
-
Remembering Frank Gehry, a titan of architecture and a brilliant human beingLong-time Wallpaper* contributor Michael Webb reflects on the legacy of the Los Angeles architect, who died today at age 96
-
Lexus finally confirms the name of its all-electric LFA Concept supercarStill designated a design study, the Lexus LFA Concept should be the successor to the most unlikely of all 20th-century supercars
-
King of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli on his new biographical docu-drama: ‘This is my testimony’Directed by Cinema Paradiso’s Giuseppe Tornatore, ‘Brunello: the Gracious Visionary’ premiered in cinematic fashion at Rome’s Cinecittà studios last night, charting the meteoric rise of the deep-thinking Italian designer
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt’s wet, windy and wintry and, this week, the Wallpaper* team craved moments of escape. We found it in memories of the Mediterranean, flavours of Mexico, and immersions in the worlds of music and art
-
Each mundane object tells a story at Pace’s tribute to the everydayIn a group exhibition, ‘Monument to the Unimportant’, artists give the seemingly insignificant – from discarded clothes to weeds in cracks – a longer look
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekThis week, the Wallpaper* team had its finger on the pulse of architecture, interiors and fashion – while also scooping the latest on the Radiohead reunion and London’s buzziest pizza
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt’s been a week of escapism: daydreams of Ghana sparked by lively local projects, glimpses of Tokyo on nostalgic film rolls, and a charming foray into the heart of Christmas as the festive season kicks off in earnest
-
Wes Anderson at the Design Museum celebrates an obsessive attention to detail‘Wes Anderson: The Archives’ pays tribute to the American film director’s career – expect props and puppets aplenty in this comprehensive London retrospective
-
Meet Eva Helene Pade, the emerging artist redefining figurative paintingPade’s dreamlike figures in a crowd are currently on show at Thaddaeus Ropac London; she tells us about her need ‘to capture movements especially’
-
David Shrigley is quite literally asking for money for old rope (£1 million, to be precise)The Turner Prize-nominated artist has filled a London gallery with ten tonnes of discarded rope, priced at £1 million, slyly questioning the arbitrariness of artistic value
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekThe rain is falling, the nights are closing in, and it’s still a bit too early to get excited for Christmas, but this week, the Wallpaper* team brought warmth to the gloom with cosy interiors, good books, and a Hebridean dram