All that glitters: five gold watches for 2024
Gold watches from Rolex, Tudor, Cartier, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are on our radar for 2024, all part of a trend seen at the recent Watches and Wonders
Gold watches were a key trend at Watches and Wonders 2024, and the return of weighty glimmer resonated with us. Here are our some of our favourites, ranging from divers’ watches to Cartier chic, platinum to rose gold.
5 gold watches for 2024
Rolex Deepsea
The gargantuan gold Rolex Deepsea weighs in at a whopping 320 grams. For the first time presented in 18ct yellow gold, the Perpetual Rolex Deepsea pairs gold, sourced from Rolex's own foundry, with ceramic and titanium, in a sleek celebration of materials.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
The secret’s out – the Vacheron Constantin Overseas range is the curated alternative in the integrated bracelet game. At Watches & Wonders 2024, we got four new references in 18ct 5N pink gold with deep green dials. In steel, the Overseas can be an understated charmer, the in-box choice of an extra rubber strap ensuring its stealth-wealth vibe. But with the lustre of softly brushed pink gold there’s no point in pretending, so we embrace the 35mm version on a full gold bracelet with the Maltese cross bezel set with diamonds.
Cartier Tortue
The Cartier Tortue originally debuted in 1912, a smooth cushion-shaped watch named after the French word for turtle. Introduced at Watches and Wonders this year was a larger-than-normal, almost tool-like crown on a twin-register Monopusher Chronograph. With only 200 pieces being made by Cartier, the understated pebble-smooth elegance will undoubtedly find collector-owners in no time. Silver opaline dials and blued hands complement the radiant cabochon and a blue alligator strap.
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Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse
Appeasing today’s appetite for watches-as-bracelets, the eloquent language of the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse is back with a braided gold vengeance. The brand is no stranger to embracing its past, but going all-in on its early 1970s glamour brings a minimal-luxe charm we love. The new rose-gold Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 remains svelte at 34.5 x 39.5 mm, boasting an ultra-thin self-winding movement in a curvaceous 5.9mm case. It might be inspired by the Golden Ratio, but the chain-link braid of the pink-gold bracelet steals the show.
Tudor Black Bay 58
If you’re all about the juxtaposed glam of a solid gold tool watch but felt the large Rolex Deepsea a bit much, family member Tudor has the answer, three years after launching the pitch-perfect rendition of a late 1950s diver. A rich green dial and bezel are framed by a satin-soft brushed case and bracelet of 18ct yellow gold. The COSC-rated MT5400 movement has the tech specs to back it up, completing a very wearable precious gold retro-nugget of the Watches and Wonders show.
Thor Svaboe is a seasoned writer on watches, contributing to several UK publications including Oracle Time and GQ while being one of the editors at online magazine Fratello. As the only Norwegian who doesn’t own a pair of skis, he hibernates through the winter months with a finger on the horological pulse, and a penchant for independent watchmaking.
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