The gold watches to covet now

Rectangular timepieces will remain the choice of the studied collector, and the Reverso has an enduring image and modern Art Deco lines that befits its close centenary. But at this year’s Watches & Wonders, JLC released a big surprise, and one that has lasted as one of the big event’s stars, all because of a strap - or should that be bracelet? For the first time, the Tribute Small Seconds, known for its colourful resurgence, came on a soft milanaise bracelet. By adding this sleek, weaved middle ground between a too-sporty bracelet and a supple strap, the full 18K pink gold transformation of the Reverso was complete. The icing on the reversible cake was Jaeger-LeCoultre’s monochrome move of adding a radiant, matte gold dial tone that completes the chic new look.

Rolex has what seems like infinite persuasive powers in the marketplace, but is not known for its flamboyant moves, except for bubble dials. This all changed by releasing the brand's rather large dive tool, the 44mm Deepsea, in wholly unexpected solid yellow gold, with the deep blue of the dial, with its matching Cerachrom bezel insert, complementing the warm gold to a tee. And if you’re bold enough to use it for its original intent, its helium escape valve and 3900m depth rating makes for a tough tool watch, enough to even stir the adventures many of us plan but never follow through with.

As a brand, Breguet is acutely aware of the significance of its original founder, Abraham Louis Breguet, and does its best when immersing us in complex classicism from the outset. Encased in 18K gold, the 41mm case of the Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225 is a testament to Breguet's refreshingly off-trend focus, featuring a gold dial with multiple aspects of traditional guilloche engraving. The time itself shown by a delightfully off-proportioned set of blued Breguet hands. This is the latest release in a year where Breguet celebrates its 250^th Anniversary, and is a fitting tribute to its founding principles.