After a subdued year, we are looking forward to shrugging off the loungewear and picking up all that glitters. Jewellers, too, have put simple forms to one side, having fun with jewellery which embraces bold colours and unexpected forms. By subverting traditional silhouettes and playing with surreal themes, this year’s jewellery is bigger, bolder and more fun than ever.
Anything goes for this year’s jewellery trend
Graphic forms are the order of the day for jewellers who weave intricate forms in precious metals, for hypnotising results. Buccellati knit rich historical references into yellow and white gold webs in the Hawaii earrings, while Louis Vuitton draws their design codes in thick lines of yellow gold, dotting the angles and curves of the LV Volt cuff in diamonds. In M/G Tasaki’s ‘Sliced’ necklace, the round orbs of freshwater pearls are juxtaposed against the clean cuts which cleave them open.
For Bernardaud, the form is softer, but the yellow zing of the Alba ring in enamelled porcelain makes for a cheerful adornment. Nyyukin feather the slim curve of a bracelet in polished steel with a textured yellow inlay, while Marion Vidal, too, flirts with textures. Her brightly coloured orbs of enamelled ceramic are strung on to a jersey ribbon, while Fabio Salini plays with perceptions in carbon fibre and pink titanium earrings.
In other pieces, surrealist silhouettes make for dream-like jewellery which sidesteps tradition. Samuel François imprints lips into goldened bronze in his Five Kisses necklace and Roberto Coin studs a rose gold octopus in diamonds and black sapphires for a ring made to coil seductively round the finger. Hermès rethink the horse which underpins their cultural heritage, dotting it with black spinels. For Francesca Villa, the Abracadabra necklace in pink gold puts a vintage vari-vue front and centre in a mischievous retelling of a classic fairy tale. Eyewear, too, succumbs to the trend - Francis de Lara, who dangles a red tourmaline apple from snakelike golden arms, makes a very seductive case for some decadent summer specs. §
Louis Vuitton ‘LV Volt’ cuff in 18ct yellow gold with 84 diamonds
Hermès ‘Galop d’Hermès’ double bracelet in rose gold and black spinels
Bernardaud ‘Alba’ ring in enamelled porcelain
Marion Vidal ‘Pluton’ necklace in enamelled ceramic with jersey ribbon and brass clasp
Nyyukin ‘Character 002’ slim bracelet in polished steel with Moment inlay in Kuma
Buccellati ‘Hawaii’ diamond necklace in yellow and white gold; ‘Hawaii’ diamond earrings in yellow and white gold
Fabio Salini earrings in carbon fibre, pink titanium, pink sapphire, white gold and diamonds