Resin, wood, glass: Cosmima contemporary jewellery collective puts on a united material front
The North London group’s annual Clerkenwell exhibition opens this weekend
The five jewellers and founding members of the Cosmima jewellery collective – Hidemi Asano, Chris Carpenter, Ulla Hörnfeld, Daphne Krinos and Louise O’Neill – invite four guest jewellers and designers to join them annually in what, this year, is a celebration of materiality.
Designers are united by their ability to tease textured material into sculptural silhouettes; resin, wood and glass become light in their hands. Kathie Murphy’s work in resin, spanning nearly three decades, allows her to revel in the possibilities of the warm and tactile material while Hidemi Asano, too, is transfixed by textural possibilities, layering slate with pyrite. Founding member Daphne Krinos’ pieces are recognisable for their bold lines of black oxidised silver. ‘I enjoy bringing jagged forms, layers, geometry, negative space and colours into my work,’ she says. ‘Each piece of jewellery has its own personality.’
Jed Green, whose designs reside at the Museum of Art and Design in New York, works using lamp blown glass, silver and wood. ‘The transformation from simple clear glass tubes into soft sculptural forms is intrinsic to my work. Experiencing a spark of an idea, then trying to create it in glass always seems impossible … until it’s done.’ §