Miguel Ángel Mayor, the strapping head chef at Sucede, finally has a restaurant space that is as slick and streamlined as his cooking.
This is not to say that interior designer Francesc Rifé has completely erased all traces of the previous iteration (which, incidentally, he had also designed in 2010). Sensibly, the Barcelona-based Rifé has left intact the imposing ruins of the 12th-century watchtowers and walls that once wrapped around Valencia, allowing the exposed brickwork to serve as both room dividers and dramatic art pieces.
Over this ancient patina, he layers monochromatic green, black-stained oak slats, and 500-year-old Valencian ceramics. The restaurant’s centrepiece is a new show kitchen, accessed through a corridor of grey smoked glass and a Gothic arch.
Here, Mayor – an El Bulli alumnus – orchestrates playful, but beautifully plated tasting menus influenced by Valencia’s Roman, Christian and Arabic gastronomic history, a conceit seen to best effect in the mojama and hedgehog cookie, and lupine stew infused with pear wine.
ADDRESS
14 Almirante Street
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
-
Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
-
This 18th-century Puglian villa has been restored with contemporary touchesThe updated stonemason's workshop is a haven of centuries-old brick and sophisticated made-in-Italy design
-
Wallpaper* checks in at The Palace Madrid: an old soul with new sparkleOnce a haunt for intellectuals and artists, Madrid’s grand dame navigates a new era of luxury following a four-year-long renovation by Lázaro Rosa-Violán Studio
-
Sun-soaked European destinations to visit in springDreaming of Florentine palazzos and Greek islands now that the weather is starting to turn? Check into one of these beautiful European hotels and holiday homes
-
Esperit Roca is a restaurant of delicious brutalism and six-course dessertsIn Girona, the Roca brothers dish up daring, sensory cuisine amid a 19th-century fortress reimagined by Andreu Carulla Studio
-
Must-visit cinemas with award-worthy designThere’s more magic to the movies at these design-led cinemas, from Busan Cinema Centre’s ‘flying’ roof to The Gem Cinema Jaipur’s art deco allure
-
‘I explored Benidorm with an open mind’: the famous Spanish seaside town is captured in a new photo bookFrom neon lights to pink sunburns, photographer Rob Ball turns his lens on Benidorm to see what remains of a ‘pan-European holiday utopia’
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Brach Madrid: a hotel of love and passionBrach Madrid, part of Evok Collection, is a charming city-centre bolthole designed by Philippe Starck
-
2025 getaways: where Wallpaper* editors will be travelling to this yearFrom the Japanese art islands of Naoshima and Teshima to the Malaysian tropical paradise of Langkawi, here’s where Wallpaper* editors plan to travel to in 2025
-
The most whimsical hotel Christmas trees around the worldWe round up the best hotel Christmas tree collaborations of the year, from an abstract take in Madrid to a heritage-rooted installation in Amsterdam
