Miguel Ángel Mayor, the strapping head chef at Sucede, finally has a restaurant space that is as slick and streamlined as his cooking.
This is not to say that interior designer Francesc Rifé has completely erased all traces of the previous iteration (which, incidentally, he had also designed in 2010). Sensibly, the Barcelona-based Rifé has left intact the imposing ruins of the 12th-century watchtowers and walls that once wrapped around Valencia, allowing the exposed brickwork to serve as both room dividers and dramatic art pieces.
Over this ancient patina, he layers monochromatic green, black-stained oak slats, and 500-year-old Valencian ceramics. The restaurant’s centrepiece is a new show kitchen, accessed through a corridor of grey smoked glass and a Gothic arch.
Here, Mayor – an El Bulli alumnus – orchestrates playful, but beautifully plated tasting menus influenced by Valencia’s Roman, Christian and Arabic gastronomic history, a conceit seen to best effect in the mojama and hedgehog cookie, and lupine stew infused with pear wine.
ADDRESS
14 Almirante Street
-
Inside the fantastical world of performance artist, Darrell ThornePerformance artist Darrell Thorne straddles multiple worlds, telling stories through transformation, reinvention and theatrical excess
-
Mostly armless: life with the Roborock Saros S70 and taking a (shallow) step into the futureThe arm-equipped Roborock Saros Z70 robot vacuum dusts, mops and even cleans up your messy household. So why did it feel like adding a demanding new family member?
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekSummer holidays are here, with Wallpaper* editors jetting off to some exceptional destinations, including highly recommended Mérida in Mexico. Then it’s back to work, or, for one editor, back to school…
-
The most stylish hotel takeovers to pop up at this summerFrom Capri to Ibiza, luxury fashion brands are taking over seaside resorts with exclusive boutique pop-ups and bespoke poolside accessories
-
Ten lesser-known gems you shouldn’t miss in MadridCelebrated for its Beaux-Arts architecture, art museums and culinary creativity, Madrid continues to reinvent itself thanks to a buoyant cultural scene
-
Wallpaper* checks in at The Palace Madrid: an old soul with new sparkleOnce a haunt for intellectuals and artists, Madrid’s grand dame navigates a new era of luxury following a four-year-long renovation by Lázaro Rosa-Violán Studio
-
Sun-soaked European destinations to visit in springDreaming of Florentine palazzos and Greek islands now that the weather is starting to turn? Check into one of these beautiful European hotels and holiday homes
-
Esperit Roca is a restaurant of delicious brutalism and six-course dessertsIn Girona, the Roca brothers dish up daring, sensory cuisine amid a 19th-century fortress reimagined by Andreu Carulla Studio
-
Must-visit cinemas with award-worthy designThere’s more magic to the movies at these design-led cinemas, from Busan Cinema Centre’s ‘flying’ roof to The Gem Cinema Jaipur’s art deco allure
-
‘I explored Benidorm with an open mind’: the famous Spanish seaside town is captured in a new photo bookFrom neon lights to pink sunburns, photographer Rob Ball turns his lens on Benidorm to see what remains of a ‘pan-European holiday utopia’
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Brach Madrid: a hotel of love and passionBrach Madrid, part of Evok Collection, is a charming city-centre bolthole designed by Philippe Starck
