The Whiteleys’ grand revival in Queensway has no shortage of scene-setting openings, yet the arrival of Nela feels like a particularly confident exhale. Amsterdam may have sparked the flame, but this is the London chapter: a nearly 10,000 sq ft stage for open-fire gastronomy, led by chefs Hari Shetty and Ori Geller, along with British entrepreneur Gilad Hayeem, and dressed by Framework Studio with smouldering elegance.
Wallpaper* dines at Nela, London
The mood: pale fire
Nela’s design language is a love letter to warmth: rich travertine, soft sandstone, red lava stone tabletops. A glow emanates from stainless-steel columns, pooling into banquettes that snake through the cavernous space. The studio’s inspiration, a droplet’s ripple, manifests in the circular bar, adorned with handmade Portuguese tiles and serving as a sculptural magnet for anyone nursing a cocktail and contemplating whether to linger or fully surrender to dinner.
Suspended aluminium fins choreograph the view towards the kitchen’s fiery procession, transforming chefs into performers. Throughout, the art collection features works by Richard Serra, Sterling Ruby, Meg Cranston, Joyce Pensato and Alighiero Boetti. For those seeking a touch of hush without disrupting the atmosphere, the semi-private dining room glows like an ember-lit enclave, illuminated by custom PS Lab’s sculptural lighting.
The food: live-fire eloquence
The house lavash bread introduces guests to a menu anchored in flame. A selection of raw and cured dishes is recommended to open the palate, such as a bright yellowtail dressed with lemon and truffle. From the grill, slow-cooked Scottish short rib and braised lamb shank bring slow-cooked richness, though the open-flame sea bream commands attention with a parsley rub.
Vegetables also receive a smoky treatment: crispy courgette with a charred cucumber tzatziki, artichoke roasted over charcoal, grilled corn swaddled in tempura. Dessert keeps the theme alive. Baked Alaska is the perfect theatrical finish, its vanilla ice cream core offset by passionfruit compote and a citrusy whisper of yuzu marshmallow. From the cocktail list, ask for your favourite and expect a twist. The Aperol Spritz, for instance, is reimagined with charred pineapple soda, plus mint and lime sorbet.
Nela is located at 163 Queensway, London W2 4BD, UK.
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