‘Elemental and pure’ cooking earns a Mexico City taco stand its first Michelin star

Since the 1960s, Taquería El Califa de León in the San Rafael neighbourhood of Mexico City has been attracting a dedicated clientele for tacos that prioritise quality tortillas and exceptional meat.

Serving just four dishes – all a variation of the beef taco – the 10ft-by-10ft taco stand has become the third street food vendor in the world to receive a Michelin star, with the guide naming the food ‘elemental and pure’.

Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez ascribes the popularity of his food to ‘the simplicity of our taco. It has only a tortilla, red or green sauce and that’s it. That and the quality of the meat.’ Martinez has been a fixture at the stand for the last 20 years and was presented with the prestigious white chef’s jacket that comes with the award while at work last week.

The accolade comes after the publication of the first Michelin Guide Mexico. Two-star fine dining restaurant Quintonil, run by chef Jorge Vallejo and Alejandra Flores; and Rosetta, from chef Elena Reygadas, awarded one star, were among the other establishments included on Michelin’s first-ever rankings for Mexico.

In 2016, a Singapore Hawker stand was the first street-food outlet to receive a Michelin star. Currently, Taquería El Califa de León joins street-food establishments Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Singapore and Jay Fai in Bangkok in the Michelin guide – both with one star each.

Full details of the Michelin Guide Mexico 2024 at guide.michelin.com