Nieves Barragán Mohacho’s follow-up to Michelin-starred Sabor in Mayfair sees the Bilbao native move east to launch her second solo restaurant. Legado means ‘legacy’ in Spanish, and here in Shoreditch, the chef is cementing not only a culinary legacy that includes her stint as executive chef of tapas institution Barrafina, but also introducing Londoners to the kind of regional Spanish food and drink rarely encountered this side of the Pyrenees.
Wallpaper* dines at Legado, London
The mood: Moorish tiles, London vibes
Barragán Mohacho studied graphic design before becoming a chef, so Legado’s surroundings look every bit as considered as what’s on the plate. Guests can choose between the 60-seat double-height dining room, the 16-seat counter, or the Taberna – an all-day bar and all-weather terrace for tapas and pintxos. Think San Sebastián in Shoreditch. Just as the menu draws inspiration from across Spain, so too do the light-filled interiors, overseen by Applied Studio. The contemporary arches of the entrance reference the traditional bóveda ceilings of Catalonia, while the natural oak counter encircling the open kitchen echoes the flames licking the logs in the wood-burning stoves
Elsewhere, London stock brick meets mezzanine metalwork in patterns reminiscent of Basque balconies, pale terracotta floor tiles evoke sun-bleached Andalusian rooftops, and glazed ceramics nod to Moorish zellige techniques. ‘The food is Nieves’ legacy, and the restaurant is designed to reflect that,’ says Applied Studio director Patrick Abrams. ‘The design is inspired by Spain but belongs in London. It is a contemporary interpretation of traditional Spanish elements, set within a uniquely London location.’
The food: Spanish beyond tapas
At the heart of the kitchen are two hand-built ovens, custom-made for Legado by Jumaco & Maestro in Madrid. Just as much attention is lavished on what goes into them: milk-fed lamb from Zamora and suckling pig from Segovia, with whole-animal butchery carried out in-house. But Legado is far more than meat. A seafood wall displays crystalline Mediterranean prawns ready to be finished with smoked paprika and moscatel vinegar, while the catch of the day – grilled and served by the half – comes with garlicky ajada sauce: diners can choose between the richly gelatinous head or the leaner, lighter tail.
To drink, a rotating selection of 18 wines by the glass offers a snapshot of the 150-strong Spanish list, spanning sherries, sparkling wines, classics, and bottles from small producers championing the revival of forgotten indigenous grape varieties. Just don’t ask for sangria.
Legado Restaurant is located at Yards, 1C Montacute, London E1 6HU, UK.
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