New Marseille restaurant Dévo dishes up a sultry 1970s mood

Designer Axel Chay’s totemic, tubular steel objects are synonymous with the creative energy of Marseille. Now, Chay and his wife Mélissa have designed a new restaurant and wine bar in the French city. Named Dévo (after the namesake American new-wave band), it’s located in the Préfecture neighbourhood, offering up a lively setting for relaxed Provençal fare from chef Ferdinand Fravega (of local favourites Figure and Ippon).

It’s the first space that the duo have designed and art directed, and the cocooning yet upbeat interior carries the mood through from early aperitivo to midnight. ‘A blend of contemporary design and vintage pieces echoes the contrasts of Marseille itself: historic façades facing bold modern lines, classical stone meeting industrial textures,’ says Axel.

Wallpaper* dines at Dévo, Marseille

The mood: sultry vermuteria

The stained Okoumé wood wall panels, varnished resin dusky burgundy floor, and sweeping lime-coloured satin curtains offset the sheen of the vintage zinc bar and tubular steel bar stools and chairs. ‘Our inspiration came from old cafés and vermuterias in Italy and Spain; timeless places where you feel the patina of life,’ explains Mélissa.

The cinematic atmosphere is enhanced by curiosities: mirrors designed by Marseille-based artist Aurélien Ciller are printed with mountains, referencing the landscape that surrounds the city, and the mirrored advertising panels of old bistros and classic train station restaurants.

Plaster seagulls, originally destined for a theatre set, soar across the walls. Axel discovered these in the workshop of his plaster craftsman in the Var: ‘I’m often drawn to shapes inspired by the sea: fluid, imperfect, alive.’

All of the lighting has been crafted by Axel’s brother Aimeric, in their family metal-working atelier in Marseille, inherited from their father. They work there together on prototypes and limited-edition pieces. The inverse pyramidal lamps are so new they haven’t even been named yet; their shape nods to the red hats worn by the Devo band members.

The food: comfort Provençal

Moving away from sharing plates, chef Fravega proposes lighter bites and mains that complement each other. Dishes such as salted anchovies, pissaladière and French onion soup occupy the former, while hearty options, such as Milanese risotto and coq au vin, feature on the latter. The extensive wine list boasts around 100 choices of independent and natural winemakers on menus designed by the local Flirt Studio, also behind the restaurant branding.

With its richly atmospheric décor, soft lighting, and curated music playlist, Dévo is a congenial spot with a distinctive mood – the result of its thorough art direction and creative team. ‘The goal with Dévo is, of course, to seduce the eye but also to awaken a sense of belonging and curiosity. It is the same feeling you get when you wander through the streets of Marseille, where every corner holds a new surprise,’ says Mélissa.

Dévo is located at 22 Bd Paul Peytral, 13006 Marseille, France.