A local’s guide to Paris by Art Basel newcomer Ash Love

Paris may be known as the city of love or light, but French visual artist Ash Love views it through a more grounded lens. ‘Paris, to me, is the city of back-and-forths,’ they tell Wallpaper*. ‘It’s a place of hopping on trains, coming and going, and experiencing everything it has to offer along the way.’

Born in Bordeaux and now based in Madrid due to an art residency at Casa de Velázquez, Love has frequented the French capital since childhood. Since graduating from HEAD Genève in 2021, the artist has travelled widely to present and exhibit their work. Following their first solo show with Exo Exo in May 2025, Love and the gallery reunite this autumn for a solo presentation at Art Basel 2025 (booth M54, part of the fair’s emerging sector), which runs until 26 October.

Titled ‘Bébé Boum,’ the showcase unpacks the social construct of birthdays. Floating balloons printed with images from the artist’s archive and a series of paintings conceived as greeting cards evoke the erosion of meaning that accompanies age and repetition. Through commercial typography and iconography, Love creates a physical and symbolic space that celebrates the mundane. Their distinctive approach to constructing reality through language – spanning painting, installation, writing, and performance – finds distilled expression here.

When leaves turn orange and the air is crisp, Love always makes a case to be in Paris. ‘Autumn is when the days grow shorter – my favourite time to meet friends in a café and sit indoors, sheltered from the city’s constant hustle,’ they say. Here, they share their go-to haunts.

What to see and do in Paris, Ash Love’s tips

Where to eat and drink

Café les Deux Gares

‘On the menu: cauliflower, olives, salted praline, grapefruit. That equals a quadruple yes from me. I love the foggy atmosphere in winter – perfect for between trains or for a solo date. It’s also part of a great hotel.’

Café les Deux Gares is located at 1 Rue des Deux Gares, 75010 Paris, France

Laïzé

‘Order matcha, bubble tea, and coffee. Drink them in any order you like.’

Laïzé is located at 19 Rue de Montmorency, 75003 Paris, France

Paloma

‘Women-owned, tiled to perfection, and all about seafood – what more could you want?’

Paloma is located at 93 Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris, France

What to do

Exo Exo

‘Currently on view is Yann Stéphane Bissô’s first solo exhibition with the gallery. I may be biased, as Yann is both a friend and an artist I truly admire, but since Exo Exo is also my gallery and art family, I must recommend it.’

Exo Exo is located at 34 Rue Albert Thomas, 75010 Paris, France

ICI – Institut des Cultures d’Islam

‘[Expect] insightful and heartfelt exhibitions, often from emerging artists. [It’s] worth sparing some time [here] when passing through Paris.’

ICI – Institut des Cultures d’Islam has two venues. ICI Léon is located at 19 Rue Léon, 75018 Paris, France, while ICI Stephenson is at 56 Rue Stephenson

Le Louxor

‘A historic public cinema with a colourful past – it had a stint as a discotheque in the late 1980s. Catch a premiere or buy tickets to see an anime in this spectacular and unique building (again, with tiles).’

Le Louxor is located at 170 Bd de Magenta, 75010 Paris, France

Where to shop

After 8 Books

‘My most treasured bookstore. Come with the intention of finding a specific book, speak to the staff, leave with one different to what you had in mind – guaranteed effect.’

After 8 Books is located at 7 Rue Jarry, 75010 Paris, France

Marché d’Aligre

‘Rue d’Aligre is the best place for grocery shopping. After grabbing your weekly haul of ripe fruits and fresh vegetables, finish your visit by heading to the square at the end of the street to find antiques and second-hand treasures. A childhood memory.’

Marché d’Aligre is located at Pl. d'Aligre, 75012 Paris, France

Also read our guides to Art Basel 2025 and the best design exhibitions to see in Paris while you're there.